[AT] Economy Jim Dandy

[Larry D. Goss]

There are two different designs on the shifter mechanism, Bob.  One has
a solid interlock slug between the shifter rails and the other has a
two-piece interlock slug with a spring inside it.  You can tell which
design you have by looking at the outside of the casting.  The newer
(solid slug) design has two bosses cast into the cover (one on each
side) and the older style only has one.  The boss on the left side of
the cover has a hole through it and is drilled on the newer style but is
simply a hole all the way to the shifter rail on the older style.
You'll have to remove both shifter rails, all the Welsh plugs, roll
pins, interlocks, etc, to get the conical spring out that holds the
shifter lever in FROM THE BOTTOM.  There is no need to remove the
indexing pin in the side of the shifter tower.  It is installed from the
INSIDE and serves only to keep the lever from rotating.

If you run into problems, keep me in mind.  I rebuilt 8 or 9 of those
transmission tops last year alone.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Bob McNitt
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 1:56 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: RE: [AT] Economy Jim Dandy


Mike, Larry & Cecil -

Rainy day but quite warm, so a good day to pull the transmission on
the JD. As you guys figured, the problem was the worn shift lever
docking end. Everything else appears to be OK. I levered it into
neutral, replaced the shift and it went thru all four gears w/o a
problem. However, I removed it again and will go the weld and grind
route so it'll stay in the slot cup.

Thanks guys!

Bob


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