[AT] ford 4000 diesel

R Mull rbobmull at comcast.net
Tue Sep 20 13:47:02 PDT 2005


I copied this from another page on the web.


On a tractor that has draft control, the draft control lever sets the 
sensitivity of the draft system. "Draft" refers to the hydraulic system's 
ability to sense and react to the pulling load of the 3-pt hitch.

On your tractor, the tractor,s top link(center link) clevis can move in and 
out slightly. It is actually connected to the hydraulic control valve inside 
the tractor.

If you were pulling a plow, and the plow hit an underground rock or root, 
the plow would be tilted forward, which pushes the top link "in". If the 
draft lever is set to the most "sensitive" position, the hydraulic system 
would automatically raise the lift momentarily and then return the plow to 
its original position (based of the position of the "position" lever). All 
of this happens without you stopping or making any adjustments.

If you have it set too sensitive, the plow will raise up all of the time 
under even the slightest loads. You may have noticed that if you move the 
draft lever to the top, the lift might raise all the way up suddenly. If you 
have it set too low, the plow won't raise and you could get caught on the 
root or tear something up.

On Fords and Masseys (and most other tractors) draft sensitivity is highest 
at the up position and lowest and the bottom position of the draft lever. 
With the draft control lever in the up position, you can control how much 
"draft"you want with the Quardrant lift control lever. With the draft 
control lever in the "position control"(down position) you can control the 
lift arms and the implement with the Quadrant lift control lever at a set 
height.

Thanks,
Robert Mull
Woodstock, Georgia


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mike Sloane" <mikesloane at verizon.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] ford 4000 diesel


> The draft control selects whether the three point hitch will respond to an 
> implement hitting an obstruction, and lifting the implement out of the 
> way, or not. It is usually only used when plowing or sometimes blading, 
> but rarely otherwise.
>
> Mike
>
> Lew Best wrote:
>> Thanks guys
>>
>> That crusted knob may be the speed control of the drop.  It's just about
>> dead center in the first link (overall view).  What is the draft control
>> for?  IOW what does it do?  If the knob in question is not the speed
>> control for the drop where would it be?
>>
>> Thanks again! Lew
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Mike Sloane
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2005 10:15 AM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: Re: [AT] ford 4000 diesel
>>
>> It sounds like you might want to see your local New Holland tractor 
>> dealer and order a copy of the Owner's manual. I believe they are still 
>> available for the 4000.
>>
>> It is hard for me to figure out what those images are, as you got a 
>> little too close for me see where they are in relation to the rest of the 
>> tractor. One pedal is definitely a differential lock. The crusted "knob" 
>> I believe is a vent, but the rest I can't tell. The lever near the lift 
>> control is the draft control and should be left up. There is another knob 
>> that controls the speed of the hitch drop - that is designed to be able 
>> to adjust the drop between heavy and light
>> implements.
>>
>> One thing with any Ford tractor I have ever dealt with: the hitch is 
>> always power up and gravity down. I have seen auxiliary cylinders 
>> installed on post hole augers to provide positive down pressure, but then 
>> you run the risk of damaging the auger - I sold more than one replacement 
>> to people who had broken or twisted the originals by putting
>>
>> too much down pressure. The augers are designed to pull themselves down,
>>
>> and if you have to force them, then something is wrong. You may also need 
>> to replace the teeth on the end of the auger. If you encounter roots or 
>> rocks, no amount of downforce will overcome those impediments -
>>
>> you just have to dig and use a bar or ax, as appropriate.
>>
>>
>
> -- 
> Mike Sloane
> Allamuchy NJ
> mikesloane at verizon.net
> Website: <www.geocities.com/mikesloane>
> Images: <www.fotki.com/mikesloane>
>
> "In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark 
> on the things you have long taken for granted." - Bertrand Russell 
> (1872-1970); English writer philosopher and mathematician.
>
>
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