[AJD] AR Project tractor

Mon Oct 31 21:17:17 PST 2005

According to PL-AR2 The block is an A3703R sub for
AA4373R. PC675 lists the same blocks for the AR and
also that the late styled A's over s/n 648,000  also
used the A3703R or AA4374R block.  I would bet that
you could use a late A or early 60 block in your AR.

  As far as heads go, PL-AR2 says A3367R sub for
AA4008R is the late AR head.  PC675 says that A3376R
was used from 272,000 to 279368.  Above that A4226R
was used for the AR.  on the A side it shows A3367R or
A4226R could be used on S/N 584,00 and up.  

   I would bet any head from an A 584,000 and up would
work as well as any block from the same serial number
range.  If you try using the lower ones it will not
work,  I tried to put a late A head on my 1945 A and
they aren't even close.  You have to match the A2325R
head with A2324R block on the cast frame styled A's. 
Hope this is helpful and that you can understand it. 
I am using Captain Morgan's cough syrup tonight. 

               Chris
          Chris

--- Chris C <jdnutinwa at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Greg and Tony,
> 
>     I think you can use any late A block on the
> styled
> AR's.  They don't bolt up through the frame like
> they
> do on the unstyled tractors.  
>    
>     I recently picked up a 1950 AR through Dean, 
> that
> had the block and head split wide open,  and then
> another more complete AR with a bad radiator.  If I
> weren't so sick right now I would have had the
> radiator apart and to the welding shop.  
> 
>      I need to make a call the the machine shop
> today
> and check on an engine block that I brought in two
> weeks ago.  If it is good,  then I have an extra
> late
> A block in the garge that has a chunk broken out of
> one of the cylinders (threw a rod)  and would need
> to
> be sleeved.  I have had good luck finding heads an
> blocks by placing want ads on Yesterdays Tractors. 
> You'll get a wide variety of price offerings,  but I
> just bought an early styled A head with valves that
> had been tested for $150 including shipping.  truly
> a
> deal.  Unfortunately the parts A that came with the
> AR
> was hardly good for scrap.. I may have a good late A
> head,  that also depends on what the machine shop
> says.  I have 3 there now,  one is bad,  the other
> two
> I don't know yet.  The one could be welded and be ok
> again.  
> 
>           Chris Carl
> 
> --- greg at theoldtractorcompany.com wrote:
> 
> > For whatever it's worth, my styled 1952 AR is
> > perhaps the best running tractor I own. Mine ran 
> > when we traded it in and just needed  a paint job
> > basically. This is the one I put on full 
> > steel w/extensions basically ruining it for parade
> > duty where it excelled.
> > Would have to check but I believe that block is
> the
> > difficult one to locate when it's not 
> > repairable so might be careful there. Would have
> to
> > check casting #"s or perhaps Chris Carl 
> > would have one as he seems to be buying tractors
> > like a madman recently (!) 
> > Or maybe Dean. Welding might work although I've
> not
> > ever had too much luck with that.
> > Greg
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Greg Stephen
> > The Old Tractor Company
> > Stephen Equipment Company
> > PO Box 709
> > Franktown, CO 80116
> > 303-663-5246
> > 303-468-0377 FAX<<--GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!
> > 
> > On Sun Oct 30 17:20 , Tommy Wilson
> > <t17wilson at cox.net> sent:
> > 
> > >Came upon a 1950 John Deere AR today that is for
> > sale. The current owner 
> > >knows virtually nothing about the tractor. The
> bad
> > part about that is that 
> > >he probably thinks it is worth more than it is.
> > Here is what I found: 
> > >Everything is froze, transmission lever,
> throttle,
> > lift lever, etc. and 
> > >certainly the motor. All tires are flat and
> > although they have much tread 
> > >left, are probably dry rotted to the point of no
> > return. Exhaust pipe from 
> > >stack to motor gone. Magneto gone. Fuel line
> gone.
> > And probably the 
> > >biggest, there is a lateral crack on the right
> side
> > just below where the 
> > >upper water pipe goes into the motor. No telling
> if
> > there are more cracks 
> > >or not, but I'm wondering if that one may be
> welded
> > fairly easily.
> > >Now for the good parts! Cosmetically very sound,
> > fenders very straight, 
> > >sheet metal straight. Not much wear on the pulley
> > from the clutch brake so 
> > >I'm guessing the tractor never did a lot of work.
> > Give me your thoughts on 
> > >what it would take to repair the motor and what
> the
> > tractor might be worth 
> > >(or if it's even worth messing with).
> > Thanks....Tommy
> > >
> > >Tommy Wilson
> > >Ruston, LA
> > >1950 IH H
> > >1951 JD B
> > >1952 IH SC
> > >
> > >
> > >_______________________________________________
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> >
>
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> > 
> > 
> > 
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