[AJD] Brass fuel valve assembly on Deere H

Ronald L. Cook rlcook at pionet.net
Sun Oct 30 21:18:11 PST 2005


Bill,
         That stuff will make that fuel valve work as new or better.  I 
have one an an all-fuel "A" that is leaking.  I need to lap that one in 
myself.  Somewhere around here I have a new one that I bought from Deere 20 
years ago for a different tractor, but it is hiding.

I have heard of some 58 to 60 bushel soybeans here, but mostly 45-50 which 
is pretty good.  Corn, is another story.  I have been operating a combine 
in corn for the last couple weeks and have only seen the yield monitor hit 
200 in one field.  It will probably average 180.  The norm seems to be 
around 130-140.  Some poorer farms are having a hard time to get 100.  Dry 
here this year.

Ron Cook
Salix, IA

>Thanks, Ron.  I found this product all over the Internet and ordered a can
>of it this evening.  Will let you know what I get, maybe I can send you some
>to use.  I'm an old guy, lots of empty pill bottles to send out samples,
>LOL.  I mean, just the Viagra ones alone...
>
>How were the crops around Salix this year?  I just got the warehouse
>receipts from some land I crop-share around Ames, looks like 61 bushels on
>the beans, no word on the corn yet.  That's a record for that farm.
>
>>
>Bill Brueck (brick)
>Chatfield, MN, USA
>
>Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
>Ronald L. Cook
>Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 11:26 PM
>To: Antique John Deere mailing list
>Subject: Re: [AJD] Brass fuel valve assembly on Deere H
>
>Bill,
>          You need some Fuelube.  Check your local aircraft mechanic.  He
>should have some for the fuel selector valves for the older airplanes.  It
>has been replaced by a product called EZTurn.  The problem is, it is sold in
>1 pound containers.  Enough for a lifetime.  You only need a little on the
>end of a finger to coat the tapered valve surface.  I can't find mine at the
>present, so will have to order a new can.  Probably not until after harvest.
>When I get it I can send a little up to you if you don't come up with some
>locally.
>
>Ron Cook
>Salix, IA
> >I know people with common sense just throw these valves and pay the
> >price for new ones, but I'm so close to having this one working.  Got
> >it all ground with fine valve compound and now I think I can assemble
> >it.  Can I use anything to lubricate it?  Running dry it seems to
> >stick.  I remember fighting this as a kid with my Model T Ford, had a
> >tapered brass part that turned inside a cast iron valve under the tank.
> >Would get it all sealed up and working then it would seize up after a
> >month or two.  Oil worked for a little while but the gasoline would wash it
>away.
> >
> >What's SOP for this?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >B²
> >
> >Bill Brueck (brick)
> >Chatfield, MN, USA
> >
>
>
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