Fw: [AT] More radiant heat.

Richard Strobel Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com
Sun Oct 30 08:05:29 PST 2005


Here's what my manifold and sub manifold look like..and one can navigate 
from there.


http://radiantengineering.com/Links/Manifold.html

One nice feature is that the pipe flanges on inlet and outlet on each pump 
have screwdriver operated shutoff valves..in the future will be very handy 
for pump replacement.  You cannot hear these pumps run and draw ~ 1 amp 
@125vac

later
RickinMt.

















----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Strobel" <Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] More radiant heat.


> I have radiant heat in my shed..quite pricy for the amount of propane it 
> uses each month ~100 rockets for a 64 x 36 shed with 3 zones..I only run 
> one in the winter..keep the other two around 36 above.
>
>   Boiler and pump(s) manifold are professional by a place down in Bozeman, 
> Mt... Radiant Engineering I believe it's called..gaggle should bring it 
> up. They use a puter to layout of the EXPENSIVE tubing 1/2" and 5/8's I 
> believe..not one line cross on top or below another.  In the main shop, 
> there are 3 runs of tubing that connect to their own manifold which in 
> turn is connected to the circulating pump and a return.
>
>   The boiler does have an accumulator er expansion tank and has it's own 
> circulating pump..this is a pressurized system around 15-20 psi. An air 
> remover automatic bleeder is used on the main manifold..no clue how it 
> works.
>
>   My main prob is controlling the heat..you're either to hot or too cold. 
> Maybe move the thermostat closer to the floor...possibly even install a 
> timer in series with the thermostat.
>
>   But when you lay those ole bones on that warm floor..you'd think you'd 
> died and went to heaven.  And now you can even wash down the floor in the 
> winter and within minutes the floor is dry.
>
>   I would guess I've got around 10k into it..boiler alone was 4,500...and 
> that was 10 years ago.
>
>   2" of blueboard,,they wanted 1", next, wire mesh/sheets with 6" 
> squares....you tie the tubing to this and get the proper spacing  18" or 
> 12"....lay rebar on top of that and do your pour.  Recommend taking half a 
> day.. taking pictures and such to document the spacing, before the 
> pour...i.e.  Concrete anchors and such in the future.
>
>   I can take pix's if anyone is interested of the boiler, plumbing and 
> manifold, submanifold.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> RickinMt.
>
> PS: The guys at Radiant Engineering are real pro's and know their stuff!!! 



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