[Farmall] 1925 M/D 10-20

Tue Nov 8 09:48:57 PST 2005

As Stephen Stills wrote (CSNY)...."So begins the task,
etc.".
This day the first meagher work commenced.  Before
starting, my neighbor took some digital images of both
the H-'n-M and the 10-20.  I should be able to pass
them on to those interested tomorrow, though the exact
approriate posting procedure is unknown to me at this
moment.
First, after the "Kodak moment" thing, I removed the
hood and the ventilated side panels.  This arrangement
is joined together in four sections with piano-style
hinges.
Second, the head cover was removed.  The push rods
were, basically, free with the exception of the first
of them (front of the machine).  As I mentioned once
before, I anticipated finding a rodent housing
project.  Sadly, I was not disappointed.  There was
what appeared to be quilting material in shreds
throughout the engine compartment.  Cleaned it off as
best I was able.  Delightful aroma, may I add. :-)
Next, the wiring was disconnected from the plugs. 
BTW, the wires look pretty good, but that is strictly
external/superficial.
The first of the four plugs released with what I would
describe as a "5" on a "10 scale" of force and effort.
 The front-most plug....different story.  It was only
with the aid of a length of pipe around the drive
handle that it was finally extricated. 
Tomorrow...hernia doctor.
Know that the plugs were a bit "wet" which I take as a
positive.  
Depite your assurance that, with a strong light, I
would be able to see down inside, I could not.
The ATF mixture was poured in as directed and that was
that for the day.
I figure to let is stew for a while and, then, see if
it frees up at all.  I assume that it may be necessary
to repeat the "penetrating solution" thing.  Please
advise as to this.
I looked for a dipstick but one did not jump out at
me.  How does one check oil levels?
I don't know if what I did today qualifies as
progress, but that is what I did.
Hmmm....
JM

--- Karl Olmstead <olmstead at ridgenet.net> wrote:

> James, the plugs require a 15/16 wrench".  Wouldn't
> hurt to spray a 
> penetrating oil around the bases, but probably won't
> be necessary.  You 
> won't break them off; at worst you might round off
> the wrench flats if 
> they're really stuck tight.  You probably don't even
> need a socket; a box 
> end wrench will work.  The spark plug holes are so
> big that it is easy to 
> shine a flashlight inside and (in the dark) see what
> the interior of the 
> cylinder looks like.
> 
> There might be some rust in the exhaust, but unless
> you find one or two 
> cylinders full of water, it is unlikely that any
> major amount of stuff has 
> built up in the exhaust manifold.  Generally not a
> problem.  I usually dump 
> some diesel fuel mixed with automatic transmission
> fluid down the exhaust 
> manifold also; it helps break loose any sticky
> valves.
> 
> When you get to the stage where you are attempting
> to turn over the engine, 
> remove the rocker arm cover and tap on the valves to
> make sure that they 
> aren't stuck.  If you succeed in turning the engine
> and a valve happens to 
> be stuck, you'll bend the pushrod or break the
> rocker arm.
> 
> Clutches are usually not stuck badly; the rear main
> seal is just a hunk of 
> felt, so some oil tends to seep past and ooze out
> onto the clutch, 
> preventing serious rust.  The exception to this rule
> is if a mouse has made 
> a nest in the clutch housing.  If that happens, the
> clutch will be a rusted 
> mess.
> 
> Operating and service manuals and parts catalogs for
> a 10-20 are available 
> from www.binderbooks.com .
> 
> You can't post pictures on this bulletin board, but
> you can offer to email 
> them to interested parties.  Count me in...
> 
> olmstead at ridgenet.net
> 
> Or you can put them up on a web page somewhere and
> tell us where they are. 
> They'll need to be reduced in size (cropped and
> shrunk to something like 
> 640x480 pixels) so that guys like me with slow
> dial-up connections can stand 
> to download the pictures.  Thanks for taking the
> time to show them to us!
> 
> -Karl (in Ridgecrest, CA, middle of Mojave Desert)
> 
> 
> ------------------
> > KO-
> > Tomorrow I am going to borrow a digital camera
> from a
> > neighbor and take some shots of the tractor and
> > H-'n-M.  I am an idiot, of course, so that same
> fellow
> > will, hopefully, help me "post" them, if that is
> the
> > correct term.
> > While there, I will make the first attempt to
> remedy
> > the M/D.  I don't know what socket size the plugs
> > are...I would imagine 7/8, but I don't know for
> sure.
> > IYO...how readily will the plugs cut loose? 
> Should I
> > be concerned about putting too much behind the
> effort
> > and break them off at the neck?  Should I spray
> > something alone the lines of WD-40 on them before
> > taking the shot?  Clearly, I don't want to do MORE
> > damage in the attempt to fix it!  What about the
> > exhaust?  Will there likely be a "rats nest" of
> crap
> > inside of it?  Do you feel that the clutch plate
> is
> > rusted tight?  Any time you could dedicate to
> guiding
> > me would be OK with me, naturally.
> > Where do you live, by the way?
> > JM
> >
> > --- Karl Olmstead <olmstead at ridgenet.net> wrote:
> >
> >> James, remove the sparkplugs from your 10-20, and
> >> wait for nightfall.  Take
> >> a powerful flashlight out with you, and shine it
> >> into the sparkplug holes.
> >> You should be able to see the opposite cylinder
> >> wall.  It wouldn't be
> >> surprising to find three good cylinders and one
> >> rusty one.  That'll be the
> >> stuck piston, and you will be able to see just
> how
> >> much rust has
> >> accumulated.
> >>
> >> While you're at it, squirt some oil, ATF or
> >> penetrating oil in each
> >> cylinder, put the plugs back in, and let the
> engine
> >> set for a few days
> >> before you try unsticking it.
> >>
> >> The rules are different for old tractors vs.
> antique
> >> cars.  In general, no
> >> judging takes place at tractor shows, so the
> >> atmosphere is much less
> >> competitive than it is at car shows.  A tractor
> with
> >> all its original decals
> >> in place on old paint is looked upon as a
> historical
> >> treasure, not an old
> >> tractor with ugly paint.
> >>
> >> -Karl
> >>
> >>
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> >>
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> >
> >
> >
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