[AT] Nuts n Bolts, bolts mostly...

[Grant Brians]

Walt, I presume your response of "What?" refers to the reference to heat. I 
am sorry that I left out the rest of the esplanation. As most of us know, 
the different grades of bolts are of different hardness. A grade 2 bolt is 
basically just steel. But the higher grades are treated for additional 
strength. The grade 5 bolt we use for 90% of applications is roughly 
equivalent to a basic oil quench tempering. But if you heat that steel to 
the point where it is red hot (the normal amount when cutting it with a 
grinder that most people use to cut threaded rod or similar items), then the 
area heated loses that temper and hence its strength.
    While this is by no means the whole length of the bolt, I have seen 
enough places where that strength would make a difference, I always think 
about it before cutting a bolt. Yes, I do upon rare occasions cut bolts as 
needed to accomplish what I need to do!  So this is not a blanket 
prohibition against cutting bolts.... Just a caution.
        Grant Brians
        Hollister, California
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DAVIESW739 at aol.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Nuts n Bolts, bolts mostly...


> In a message dated 5/8/2005 12:58:30 P.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,
> gbrians at hollinet.com writes:
> Another reason not to  thread all of the way on longer bots and then cut 
> them
> to size is heat. When  you cut a bolt or threaded rod, the heat from the
> cutting process weakens  the metal around the cut area. Also, it is harder 
> to
> start a threaded rod or  bolt that has been cut because you do not have 
> the
> start  section.
> Grant  Brians
>
> WHAT???????
>
> Walt Davies
> Cooper Hollow Farm
> Monmouth,  OR 97361
> 503 623-0460
>
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