[AT] Quiet list and tapered axles

[Grant Weir]

Hi Bruce,

   Don't use a wimpy puller - use the heavyest unit you can find or build.  
Put plenty of pressure on it and slug the end, but like Charlie says, leave 
the nut on or you'll bugger up the threads.  Heat is a good idea too.  I 
have found that the ultimate way is to:

a)  Install the largest puller you can find.  Mount it very secure and maybe 
even tie it to the wheel with some rope so if it decides to leave, it does 
not do go very far.  I watched one exit through a window once. :-)

b)  Apply lots of pressure to the screw, but keep in mind that it is 
possible to go overboard.  I broke the outer flange right off my Wallis's 
rear hub and left the tapered part of the hub behind!  Nasty...

c)  DONT FORGET TO LUBE THE SCREW!

d)  Apply heat to the hub.  It's not so much to expand it but more to just 
"move it around" a little and microscopically break the two metal parts 
aparrt a bit.  The expansion is usually lost pretty quick as the axle will 
heat too and negate the effect but the heat will help to move the seized 
metals around enough to break their hold a bit.  Kind of like heating a 
brass plug in a cast iron carburetor - the heat breaks the seam a little.

e)  The most important part:  Beat the end of the screw yes - but beat on 
the hub itself too.  This is the secret - beat the actuall surface around 
the tapered hub itself.  This would be the area that actually surounds the 
seized taper.  If there is a brake drum around it this might no be possible 
but it really is the key if you can get at it.  Beat it hard and often while 
applying lots of pressure to the screw and lots of heat to the hub.  Beating 
on the hub area has never failed me yet.  An air chisel or needle descaler 
works well for this but a ball pien (sic?) hammer works too.

Good luck!

Grant Weir
Saskatoon, SK.
Canada

>From: "Bruce Fallon" <bfallon at whidbey.com>
>Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Subject: [AT] Quiet list and tapered axles
>Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 19:52:02 -0800
>
>List is very quiet.
>
>Anybody have any ideas how to remove a brake drum from a tapered axle 
>shaft.
>I was trying to remove the one on my Huber,  I put a piece of angle iron
>with another piece of steel over the end of the axle shaft and against the
>nut loosened but still on it and tightened bolts in the lug bolt holes to
>apply pressure to the end of the shaft as a puller and beat on the drum and
>heated the center of the hub but finally had to give up.  I put the nut 
>back
>on loose and graded with it for a while but when checked later it was still
>tight.  I had heard in the old days of dodges and studebakers with the
>tapered hubs that was a trick to loosen the nut and drive them until they
>moved.  I don't want to beat on the end of the shaft and bell it to where
>the nut cannot be put back on.
>
>Bruce Fallon
>Freeland WA. 98249
>bfallon at whidbey.com
>
>
>
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