[AT] Quiet list and tapered axles

[charlie hill]

Actually Grant,  if it is possible to hit the side of the hub right at the 
taper that is probably the way to get it off.  Just like removing a front 
end ball joint taper.  Not know how the hub is built I didn't suggest that.

Charlie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Grant Weir" <grantweird at hotmail.com>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 10:48 AM
Subject: RE: [AT] Quiet list and tapered axles


> Hi Bruce,
>
>   Don't use a wimpy puller - use the heavyest unit you can find or build. 
> Put plenty of pressure on it and slug the end, but like Charlie says, 
> leave the nut on or you'll bugger up the threads.  Heat is a good idea 
> too.  I have found that the ultimate way is to:
>
> a)  Install the largest puller you can find.  Mount it very secure and 
> maybe even tie it to the wheel with some rope so if it decides to leave, 
> it does not do go very far.  I watched one exit through a window once. :-)
>
> b)  Apply lots of pressure to the screw, but keep in mind that it is 
> possible to go overboard.  I broke the outer flange right off my Wallis's 
> rear hub and left the tapered part of the hub behind!  Nasty...
>
> c)  DONT FORGET TO LUBE THE SCREW!
>
> d)  Apply heat to the hub.  It's not so much to expand it but more to just 
> "move it around" a little and microscopically break the two metal parts 
> aparrt a bit.  The expansion is usually lost pretty quick as the axle will 
> heat too and negate the effect but the heat will help to move the seized 
> metals around enough to break their hold a bit.  Kind of like heating a 
> brass plug in a cast iron carburetor - the heat breaks the seam a little.
>
> e)  The most important part:  Beat the end of the screw yes - but beat on 
> the hub itself too.  This is the secret - beat the actuall surface around 
> the tapered hub itself.  This would be the area that actually surounds the 
> seized taper.  If there is a brake drum around it this might no be 
> possible but it really is the key if you can get at it.  Beat it hard and 
> often while applying lots of pressure to the screw and lots of heat to the 
> hub.  Beating on the hub area has never failed me yet.  An air chisel or 
> needle descaler works well for this but a ball pien (sic?) hammer works 
> too.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Grant Weir
> Saskatoon, SK.
> Canada
>
>>From: "Bruce Fallon" <bfallon at whidbey.com>
>>Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
>><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
>><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>Subject: [AT] Quiet list and tapered axles
>>Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 19:52:02 -0800
>>
>>List is very quiet.
>>
>>Anybody have any ideas how to remove a brake drum from a tapered axle 
>>shaft.
>>I was trying to remove the one on my Huber,  I put a piece of angle iron
>>with another piece of steel over the end of the axle shaft and against the
>>nut loosened but still on it and tightened bolts in the lug bolt holes to
>>apply pressure to the end of the shaft as a puller and beat on the drum 
>>and
>>heated the center of the hub but finally had to give up.  I put the nut 
>>back
>>on loose and graded with it for a while but when checked later it was 
>>still
>>tight.  I had heard in the old days of dodges and studebakers with the
>>tapered hubs that was a trick to loosen the nut and drive them until they
>>moved.  I don't want to beat on the end of the shaft and bell it to where
>>the nut cannot be put back on.
>>
>>Bruce Fallon
>>Freeland WA. 98249
>>bfallon at whidbey.com
>>
>>
>>
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