[AT] Quiet list and tapered axles

Richard Strobel Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com
Sat Mar 26 20:41:18 PST 2005


Bruce, let's see if I can remember that far back.  I had a '56 Plymouth that 
had tapered splined axles.  Dad had a pretty large puller with 3 legs. The 
adjustable legs would fit on 3 lug studs with nuts.  The puller was not 
tightened with a wrench but had a "T" bar affair and you banged on the tips 
of the "T."  About three hits there and then he smacked the "T" axially 
right at the intersection of the "T."  And of course he had the nut on the 
axle to keep the puller screw from slipping off.  The secret was smacking 
the "T" which goes for almost any puller.
  Heat might not be too good as you might burn the axle seal, but one must 
do what one must do:-))

I'll surf around and see if I can find one.

later,
RickinMt.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bruce Fallon" <bfallon at whidbey.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 8:52 PM
Subject: [AT] Quiet list and tapered axles


> List is very quiet.
>
> Anybody have any ideas how to remove a brake drum from a tapered axle 
> shaft.
> I was trying to remove the one on my Huber,  I put a piece of angle iron
> with another piece of steel over the end of the axle shaft and against the
> nut loosened but still on it and tightened bolts in the lug bolt holes to
> apply pressure to the end of the shaft as a puller and beat on the drum 
> and
> heated the center of the hub but finally had to give up.  I put the nut 
> back
> on loose and graded with it for a while but when checked later it was 
> still
> tight.  I had heard in the old days of dodges and studebakers with the
> tapered hubs that was a trick to loosen the nut and drive them until they
> moved.  I don't want to beat on the end of the shaft and bell it to where
> the nut cannot be put back on.
>
> Bruce Fallon
> Freeland WA. 98249
> bfallon at whidbey.com
>
>
>
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