[Farmall] Manifold Studs

John Wilkens jwilkens at eoni.com
Tue Jul 12 07:56:45 PDT 2005


Good deal on the nut Larry!  If welding the nut on the broken stud works 
it's probably because of the "heat treatment" the stud gets as a result of 
welding the nut on.  It might be a good idea to heat and cool the stud and 
area around it a couple times before you weld the nut on since you have 
only one good shot at breaking the stud free befoe it breaks off 
again.  Then you'd be stuck with the ugly drill and tap operation.    John



At 06:44 AM 07/12/2005, you wrote:
>John,  Thanks,  I got the nut off the one stud by heating it up and
>letting it cool.  The real challenge is getting the stud out that is
>broken.  It broke off far enough up that I can get a nut on it.   I
>probably will take the tractor to my nephew and weld the nut on and work
>from there...hoping I do not break the stud off further down.  It probably
>has only been a in the tractor for 61 years....you would think they would
>make them to last!  : )
>
>Larry
>
>Larry Hardesty
>Kearney, Nebraska 68849-2240
>308-865-8535
>308-865-8722 fax
>hardestyll at unk.edu
>
>
>
>John Wilkens <jwilkens at eoni.com>
>Sent by: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>07/11/2005 02:22 PM
>Please respond to
>Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>
>
>To
>Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>cc
>
>Subject
>Re: [Farmall] Manifold Studs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Larry, try heating the stuck nut to red hot and then let it cool
>down--maybe a couple times....applying a good penetrating oil before and
>after.  It should break loose enough to work it back and forth with
>penetrating oil.  Usually best not to try to turn off a red hot nut
>because
>it will often gaul (weld itself) to the stud.  With the broken stud, grind
>
>down the broken face of the stud so you can center punch it exactly in the
>
>center and drill it with a small bit, followed by a tap-size bit.  Use
>good
>quality bits that can withstand the hard steel of the stud.  If retapping
>is not successful you can drill and tap it to the next larger size--or use
>
>a heli-coil.  Good luck with the nasty things!  John W.
>
>
>
>At 11:22 AM 07/11/2005, you wrote:
> >Folks,  The exhaust pipe (not the manifold or the muffler)  on my 1941
> >Farmall A broke yesterday.  It is a distallate manifold so the exhaust
> >pipe is not just a pipe but an $89 item from Case-IH-whaterver.   I
>looked
> >it over and it had been welded before sometime in the past 64 years.  One
> >stud broke and I suspect the other one is not in good shape with all the
> >heating and cooling over years.    I tricks I should know in trying to
> >loosen the bolt off the good stud....and in drilling and tapping the
> >broken stud out?  By the way new studs are $16 from Case-IH-whatever.
> >
> >Any advice appreciated.
> >
> >
> >Larry Hardesty
> >Kearney, Nebraska 68849-2240
> >_______________________________________________
> >Farmall mailing list
> >http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
>
>                     In the wide-open spaces of NE Oregon
>
>
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