[AT] D2 Stuck Steering Clutches

crawler crawler at lynnet.com
Sat Feb 26 04:53:10 PST 2005



 Cecil Those old TD6,9's,and 14 are fun There is a flange on the bevel gear
that you have to remove the bolts from and you better mark it as the bolt
pattern is not unifourm,on top of that you can only move the wrench about
1/4 inch at a time,i have a hard time with it as my hands go numb when i
hold tools like that for periods of time,i have to tie string to the tool
and then to my wrist so i don't lose the wrench down the housing when i drop
it which i will about 30 times as i'm doing it..... Seen your buddy Shorty
the other day he was over to pick up some parts  doing good still full of
it...lol.  Let me know when you do your 2010 i have disc's in stock for
them..  Thanks  ED  http://www.crawlerheaven.com/index.htm
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] D2 Stuck Steering Clutches


> > I can't think of a worse job than going after the steering clutches and
> > brake bands on a D2.  You will want to do the bands while you are there
> > unless you enjoy labor and like wrench pulling for therapy.   The blade
> > comes off, the track comes off, the track frames come off, fenders and
seat
> > come off, (fuel tank is a given whether side mount tank or seat tank.)
> >
> > Now you get to pull the final drives.  They must come off perfectly even
and
> > square so as not to hang up on the clutch discs inside the brake drum.
If
> > the clutches are in v-e-r-y bad shape it can be pretty spendy.
>
>
> I had to chuckle after reading this part of John's answer to Rich
> as these are the exact instructions that come with the service manual for
> my crawlers. It is what keeps crawler owners from fixing stuck clutches.
> grins.  My manual also gives the instructions for making a special tool
> consisting of 3/4" re-bar that will fit the holes in the final drive
> casting so you can actually get ahold of the final drives to slide them
> out using a hoist or shop crane. All this work only lets you look into the
> hole. I am familiar with it because I have a clutch that is hanging up on
> the JD 2010 crawler and it will only get worse if left that way. Must be
> that moisture gets down in there somehow and rusts or cruds up the shaft
> the clutches slide on. Good luck, Rich.
>
> I went to look at an older IHC crawler a few years ago that was
> selling cheap. It had provisions for removing the clutches from the rear
> and wasn't so bad. All he had to take off were the seat, gas tank, and the
> rear cover plates. Only thing was, he had a gazillion clutch discs
scattered
> all over his shop and was only "pretty sure" they were all there. I passed
> on this one.
>
> Cecil
>
> Cecil
> -- 
> The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to wonder
> what you said.
>
> Cecil E Monson
> Lucille Hand-Monson
> Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole
>
> Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
>
> Free advice
>
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>





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