[AT] D2 Stuck Steering Clutches

[Cecil E Monson]

> I can't think of a worse job than going after the steering clutches and
> brake bands on a D2.  You will want to do the bands while you are there
> unless you enjoy labor and like wrench pulling for therapy.   The blade
> comes off, the track comes off, the track frames come off, fenders and seat
> come off, (fuel tank is a given whether side mount tank or seat tank.)
> 
> Now you get to pull the final drives.  They must come off perfectly even and
> square so as not to hang up on the clutch discs inside the brake drum.  If
> the clutches are in v-e-r-y bad shape it can be pretty spendy.


	I had to chuckle after reading this part of John's answer to Rich
as these are the exact instructions that come with the service manual for
my crawlers. It is what keeps crawler owners from fixing stuck clutches.
grins.  My manual also gives the instructions for making a special tool
consisting of 3/4" re-bar that will fit the holes in the final drive
casting so you can actually get ahold of the final drives to slide them
out using a hoist or shop crane. All this work only lets you look into the
hole. I am familiar with it because I have a clutch that is hanging up on
the JD 2010 crawler and it will only get worse if left that way. Must be
that moisture gets down in there somehow and rusts or cruds up the shaft
the clutches slide on. Good luck, Rich.

	I went to look at an older IHC crawler a few years ago that was
selling cheap. It had provisions for removing the clutches from the rear
and wasn't so bad. All he had to take off were the seat, gas tank, and the
rear cover plates. Only thing was, he had a gazillion clutch discs scattered
all over his shop and was only "pretty sure" they were all there. I passed
on this one.

Cecil

Cecil
-- 
The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to wonder
what you said.

Cecil E Monson
Lucille Hand-Monson
Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole

Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment

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