[AT] John Deere Carb.

[Ralph Goff]

Thanks for the carb ideas John and Louis. I will try it before I get too
carried away with the screwdriver and penetrating oil.

Ralph in Sask.
http://lgoff.sasktelwebsite.net/

----- Original Message -----
From: Louis Spiegelberg <louis at kellnet.com>
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 3:41 PM
Subject: RE: [AT] John Deere Carb.


> I use the brazing tip on my torch.  Adjust to low heat.  Heat all the
brass
> screws till you see a green flame.  Remove heat as soon as the green
flame.
> Let the screws cool, and then they should turn out very easily.  Once you
> get the screws out heat the stem red hot.  Let it cool.  Use the
appropriate
> size tap and make some threads in the bottom side of the nozzle.  I use a
> long screw to fit the threads.  I put a nut and a few washers on the
screw.
> Thread the screw into the nozzle, then tighten the nut down on the washers
> (the washers should be resting on the stem). The nozzle should come out
> then.
>
> Lou
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Goff
> Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 3:48 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: [AT] John Deere Carb.
>
>
> I finally went ahead and took off the carburetor of my John Deere AR. Fuel
> starvation was causing it to run only on choke. On dis-assembly I was
amazed
> at how dirty it was inside that big cast iron carburetor. Looks like
mostly
> gum and varnish from stale gas. Its a fairly simple looking carb but I am
> having problems unscrewing the two big brass screws that hold the float
> pivot pin in place. I don't want to damage the heads or twist them off but
> so far they have resisted my efforts to loosen them. This is the DTLX
> (Marvel Schebler I think) carb and the first of this kind that I have ever
> worked on.
>
> Ralph in Sask.
> http://lgoff.sasktelwebsite.net/
>
>
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