[AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question and welding cast iron

Sun Dec 4 04:38:24 PST 2005

the old D14 looks pretty good Ralph.  I bet there isn't much wrong with it. 
I'd like to have the 52 Chevy and the MM lawn tractor too.
Problem is they are about 2000 miles from me.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ralph Goff" <alfg at sasktel.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question and welding cast 
iron

> http://kramerauction.com/equipment/displaysale.php?ID=1139
> Theres an interesting old D14 AC at this farm auction next spring. Its got 
> one of the older front end loaders, twindraulic or horndraulic I'd guess. 
> The front of the tractor shows signs of getting a little too close to 
> whatever the loader was dumping into. No grille at all. Its a non-runner 
> so should go cheap.
>
> Ralph in Sask.
> http://lgoff.sasktelwebsite.net/
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "carl gogol" <cgogol at twcny.rr.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 10:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question and welding cast 
> iron
>
>
>> Just came back from looking at the AC 170 that has the Perkins with a 
>> cracked block.  The crack is on the left side and stretches horizontally 
>> between two frost plugs on the upper part of the block  --- same place as 
>> yours Cecil??
>>
>> It is quite cold today about -3 C, or 28 F, and the engine would not 
>> start. The salesman was about to get some ether and the engine failed to 
>> turn over anymore.  He had cranked quite a while and all we got was white 
>> smoke and a few slightly energetic near fires - but it just wouldn't 
>> touch off.  I could feel the solenoid kick in with my hand on the 
>> starter, but in a way was surprised that the starter wasn't warm to the 
>> touch for all the cranking it had done.
>>
>> Do you think it didn't fire because of low temp or low compression?  Some 
>> white smoke coming out of the manifold area, could be a gasket or worse a 
>> crack in the manifold.  It was cold out!
>>
>> Carl Gogol
>> Manlius, NY
>> (2) AC D-14, AC 914H
>> Simplicity 3112 & 7116
>> Kubota F-2400
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Cecil Bearden" <crbearden at copper.net>
>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 7:28 AM
>> Subject: Re: [AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question and welding cast 
>> iron
>>
>>
>>>I have one of these torches.  It was made by another name about 10 years 
>>>back when I got mine.  It has a nice design for the cutting attachment. 
>>>It will weld very thin metal.  You can weld shim stock with it.  However, 
>>>I have not used it in over 5 years.  I was welding inside a recessed hole 
>>>with it, and burned the end of the tip I used most of the time, and it 
>>>has been hard to find the tips Until a couple years ago.
>>>
>>> I guess what I am saying is that it is nice to have.  However, I weld 
>>> something every time I am in the shop.  I have a wire welder, a stick 
>>> welder, and a plasma cutter, and a propane fired cutting torch.  When I 
>>> braze anything I use the cutting torch!!!
>>> I would rather have a good 115 v or small wire welder with a small gun 
>>> on it for welding in tight spaces such as exhaust pipes when laying 
>>> under the truck....
>>>
>>> I did use that fancy torch when  I was welding the hinge brackets on my 
>>> chevy truck.  I could weld the door edge without burning the paint on 
>>> the outside.  This is where the Henrob works best.   They will 
>>> demonstrate it at shows, but most of the tricks they show require a lot 
>>> of  "Technique".
>>>
>>> In the past couple of years I have taught several employees to weld.  I 
>>> have also been on sites where experienced welders were having a lot of 
>>> difficulty with an out of position or just an unusual repair with the 
>>> combination of thicknesses or alloys.  I have offered my assistance, and 
>>> had no real difficulty performing the job.  I have welded gear teeth on 
>>> final drives, cast iron housings in pinion cages of truck rear ends, and 
>>> nearly every truck frame that was broken within 25 miles of here.
>>>
>>> However, I never could weld the crack on the left side of the Perkins 
>>> engine in the Massey Super 90 Perkins engine.  I preheated it, layed it 
>>> on its side, etc, etc.  It always cracked further when it cooled even 
>>> with controlling the heat.  I also used the Henrob on this one.  If 
>>> welding Cast iron, Nickel rod is usually the best with an Arc welder, if 
>>> you do not need to machine the weld later, You can weld in short beads 
>>> with the nickel rod. Stainless rod will work also.  Some stainless rod 
>>> will machine better, it has more nickel in it.  Preheat the block and 
>>> weld short beads. Eutectic makes a very good Nickel rod.  You can weld 
>>> oily cast iron with it.  It is also about $50 a lb....  If I have a 
>>> small casting I will lay in over an old hot water heater burner and heat 
>>> it to about 350-400 degrees and then weld it.  Then let it cool over a 
>>> couple of hours or so by reducing the flame. This works best in the 
>>> winter!!!!! You can put the hot casting in a bucket of lime and let it 
>>> cool in it. Sand will work too, but if you need to machine it, the sand 
>>> will impart silicon to the iron, and cause brittleness of the edge...
>>>
>>> I have used a carbon arc torch to braze cast iron with also.  If you 
>>> need to heat a large area and get the bronze to flow into a deep break 
>>> or cut, this works good.  Just be sure to wear a lot of covering.  It 
>>> can cause a GOOD sunburn...
>>>
>>> I guess I have rambled too much.   That Perkins block can be welded, but 
>>> it should be out of the tractor, with all the parts removed.  You also 
>>> need to check to see if the crack progresses, will it enter the oil 
>>> gallery?  I had this problem 30 years ago on a chrysler industrial in my 
>>> old 90 massey combine.  There is a tapered plug system that is used to 
>>> cold patch blocks and heads that works pretty good also.  Goodson 
>>> Machine sells the materials. They are on the internet.  I have also seen 
>>> some very good sheet metal patches using a gasket and 1/4 inch bolts 
>>> tapped into the block...
>>>
>>> Just my $0.02
>>>
>>> Cecil in OKla
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>> From: <K7jdj at aol.com>
>>> To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 1:06 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question
>>>
>>>
>>>> In a message dated 12/2/2005 5:23:19 AM Pacific  Standard Time,
>>>> larry at rockridgefarm.com writes:
>>>> It does a great job on cast  iron, thin aluminum, and sheet
>>>> metal. It will work on steel up to about 1/4  inch.
>>>> They have a web site - google henrob.
>>>>
>>>> I checked this site  out.  Looks to good to be true.  Are there any 
>>>> others
>>>> out there that  use this torch?
>>>>
>>>> Gary
>>>> Renton, WA
>>>>
>>>> Lots of old iron needs  welden
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> AT mailing list
>>>> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
>>
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