[AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question and welding cast iron

Richard Strobel Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com
Sat Dec 3 09:09:05 PST 2005


Carl, a local tractor mechanic has a kit that will tell you if there's 
combustible gasses in the cooling system.  I can't remember the name.  This 
could come in handy for you for obvious reasons.

Maybe someone else can shed some light.

5 above here..bout right
RickinMt.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "carl gogol" <cgogol at twcny.rr.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question and welding cast 
iron


> Just came back from looking at the AC 170 that has the Perkins with a
> cracked block.  The crack is on the left side and stretches horizontally
> between two frost plugs on the upper part of the block  --- same place as
> yours Cecil??
>
> It is quite cold today about -3 C, or 28 F, and the engine would not 
> start.
> The salesman was about to get some ether and the engine failed to turn 
> over
> anymore.  He had cranked quite a while and all we got was white smoke and 
> a
> few slightly energetic near fires - but it just wouldn't touch off.  I 
> could
> feel the solenoid kick in with my hand on the starter, but in a way was
> surprised that the starter wasn't warm to the touch for all the cranking 
> it
> had done.
>
> Do you think it didn't fire because of low temp or low compression?  Some
> white smoke coming out of the manifold area, could be a gasket or worse a
> crack in the manifold.  It was cold out!
>
> Carl Gogol
> Manlius, NY
> (2) AC D-14, AC 914H
> Simplicity 3112 & 7116
> Kubota F-2400
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cecil Bearden" <crbearden at copper.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 7:28 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question and welding cast
> iron
>
>
> >I have one of these torches.  It was made by another name about 10 years
> >back when I got mine.  It has a nice design for the cutting attachment. 
> >It
> >will weld very thin metal.  You can weld shim stock with it.  However, I
> >have not used it in over 5 years.  I was welding inside a recessed hole
> >with it, and burned the end of the tip I used most of the time, and it 
> >has
> >been hard to find the tips Until a couple years ago.
> >
> > I guess what I am saying is that it is nice to have.  However, I weld
> > something every time I am in the shop.  I have a wire welder, a stick
> > welder, and a plasma cutter, and a propane fired cutting torch.  When I
> > braze anything I use the cutting torch!!!
> > I would rather have a good 115 v or small wire welder with a small gun 
> > on
> > it for welding in tight spaces such as exhaust pipes when laying under 
> > the
> > truck....
> >
> > I did use that fancy torch when  I was welding the hinge brackets on my
> > chevy truck.  I could weld the door edge without burning the paint on 
> > the
> > outside.  This is where the Henrob works best.   They will demonstrate 
> > it
> > at shows, but most of the tricks they show require a lot of 
> > "Technique".
> >
> > In the past couple of years I have taught several employees to weld.  I
> > have also been on sites where experienced welders were having a lot of
> > difficulty with an out of position or just an unusual repair with the
> > combination of thicknesses or alloys.  I have offered my assistance, and
> > had no real difficulty performing the job.  I have welded gear teeth on
> > final drives, cast iron housings in pinion cages of truck rear ends, and
> > nearly every truck frame that was broken within 25 miles of here.
> >
> > However, I never could weld the crack on the left side of the Perkins
> > engine in the Massey Super 90 Perkins engine.  I preheated it, layed it 
> > on
> > its side, etc, etc.  It always cracked further when it cooled even with
> > controlling the heat.  I also used the Henrob on this one.  If welding
> > Cast iron, Nickel rod is usually the best with an Arc welder, if you do
> > not need to machine the weld later, You can weld in short beads with the
> > nickel rod. Stainless rod will work also.  Some stainless rod will 
> > machine
> > better, it has more nickel in it.  Preheat the block and weld short 
> > beads.
> > Eutectic makes a very good Nickel rod.  You can weld oily cast iron with
> > it.  It is also about $50 a lb....  If I have a small casting I will lay
> > in over an old hot water heater burner and heat it to about 350-400
> > degrees and then weld it.  Then let it cool over a couple of hours or so
> > by reducing the flame. This works best in the winter!!!!!   You can put
> > the hot casting in a bucket of lime and let it cool in it.  Sand will 
> > work
> > too, but if you need to machine it, the sand will impart silicon to the
> > iron, and cause brittleness of the edge...
> >
> > I have used a carbon arc torch to braze cast iron with also.  If you 
> > need
> > to heat a large area and get the bronze to flow into a deep break or 
> > cut,
> > this works good.  Just be sure to wear a lot of covering.  It can cause 
> > a
> > GOOD sunburn...
> >
> > I guess I have rambled too much.   That Perkins block can be welded, but
> > it should be out of the tractor, with all the parts removed.  You also
> > need to check to see if the crack progresses, will it enter the oil
> > gallery?  I had this problem 30 years ago on a chrysler industrial in my
> > old 90 massey combine.  There is a tapered plug system that is used to
> > cold patch blocks and heads that works pretty good also.  Goodson 
> > Machine
> > sells the materials. They are on the internet.  I have also seen some 
> > very
> > good sheet metal patches using a gasket and 1/4 inch bolts tapped into 
> > the
> > block...
> >
> > Just my $0.02
> >
> > Cecil in OKla
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: <K7jdj at aol.com>
> > To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2005 1:06 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AT] Cracked diesel block opinion question
> >
> >
> >> In a message dated 12/2/2005 5:23:19 AM Pacific  Standard Time,
> >> larry at rockridgefarm.com writes:
> >> It does a great job on cast  iron, thin aluminum, and sheet
> >> metal. It will work on steel up to about 1/4  inch.
> >> They have a web site - google henrob.
> >>
> >> I checked this site  out.  Looks to good to be true.  Are there any
> >> others
> >> out there that  use this torch?
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> Renton, WA
> >>
> >> Lots of old iron needs  welden
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> 



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