[Farmall] Paint Questions (long)

Mon Aug 15 16:16:08 PDT 2005

You mentioned having the floor dust free.  You should always wet the floor
down before you paint.
You do this for 2 reasons; 1) keeps the dust down  2) Paint won't stick to
your floor.
Mike
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy glines" <pioneersop96 at yahoo.com>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 8:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Paint Questions (long)


> Without good surface prep it doesn't matter what kind
> of paint you use or how well you apply it.  Make sure
> that the surface is clean and OIL FREE.  Use your
> lacquer thinner, or a very good water based degreaser
> and wash it.  I like the purple stuff that you get by
> the gallon.  The puple stuff is marketed under several
> different brand names including Castrol.
> When you are satisfied that the surface is ready its
> time to paint.  Do your painting shortly after
> cleaning so that the tractor doesn't have time to get
> dirty again.  I recommend using a primer.  If the
> parts a primed it will take less paint when applying
> the color coat and the primer will show spots where
> your surface prep isn't good.  Its much easier to fix
> primer than it is cxolor.  Make sure that the primer
> is compatible with the color coat that ytou will be
> using.  You need to pick your paint.  I used the paint
> from the IH dealer on a plow last year and I'm really
> disappointed with it.  I have found the IH paint to be
> much softer & less durable than many automotive
> finishes.  If you chose IH paint look into a hardener
> for it and also consider clear-coating afterwards.  I
> prefer PPG Delstar paint with hardener.  Delstar is a
> paint designed for use on fleet trucks so its tough
> stuff perfect for use on a tractor.  Most automotive
> finish manufacturers will have a comparable product
> EX: Dupont Imron.  Automotive finishes are very
> expensive but they produce a superior product.  I
> chose the expensive stuff because I hate doing the
> same job twice.  Surface prep is just to much work!
> In the end its your tractor and you shoul use whatever
> painy you want.  Make sure that you follow the
> directions to the letter.  Use only the recommended
> thinners and hardeners.  The instructions will also
> instruct you on how and when you can apply additional
> coats...... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS!
> Prep yourself and the shop before painting.  The floor
> needs to be clean and dust free.  Drafts from the
> paint gun will kick up any dust and it will go int
> your paint.  Consider building a primitave paint booth
> from plastic sheet.  The booth doesn't have to have
> air tight seams and perfect lighting.  A simple tent
> will be quite helpful though.  The tent will help keep
> dirt and bugs out of your paint and keep overspray off
> of your other stuff.  If you can, rig an exhaust fan
> for your spray booth.  Pay attention to where your
> overspray is going including that which exits the fan.
>  Get a pressure regulator, filter, and water separator
> for your air supply.  Use the pressure recommended by
> the paint maker.  The more of you body that is covered
> by clothes the less you will have to clean paint off
> of later.  I often paint in short sleeves and usually
> whish I hadn't.  Make sure you clothes fit properly.
> Very loose clothes will droop and could be dragged
> through the paint accidentially.  Tie back long hair
> for the same reason.  I hat may also be helpful.  The
> most important part of getting yourself ready is
> getting and using a good mask to keep from breathing
> the volatile solvents used on automotive finishes.  I
> dust mask is not adequate!  When you are finished
> painting get away from the project ASAP.  Lingering in
> the area will only kick up dirt and make it possible
> for you to bump into the wet paint.  Go to a seperate
> area to clean you equipment.  I find it best to leave
> the building for a few hours because I can't stay away
> before the paint is dry.
> Make sure that the conditions are good for paint.  I
> once painted shortly after a rain storm and learned a
> very hard lesson.  Excessive humidity will cause the
> paint to flash.  When paint flashes it turns dull and
> doesn't shine.  Kind of like the difference between
> glossy photos and ones with a mat finish.  We all want
> shiny tractors.  Also be sure to follow the paint
> makers recommendations on temperature.
> Sorry for the long post.  I'm very much a novice
> painter but I've learned a few things along the way.
> Hopefully, my experiences will help you.
>
> Note:  Don't leave the purple solvent on painted
> surfaces for an extended period.  Is a good cleaner
> and may harm the paint.
>
> --- Jim Kordick <jkor1 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > To the group:
> >
> > My boy and I have stripped down a Farmall 'H', with
> > intention of painting
> > (possibly Labor Day weekend).
> >
> > We have sandblasted and wire brushed the majority of
> > it.  We used some paint
> > stripper on the hood sections.
> >
> > The tires are still on the rims, but are off the
> > wheels.  The tractor is
> > sitting on blocks on the
> > wheels.  Getting the rim clamps off proved to be
> > quite an experience.  Some
> > of the bolts had
> > to be drilled out and torched out.
> >
> > I have read different sources about painting, but
> > wanted to get some input
> > from the group.
> > This is going to be our first by ourselves.
> >
> > Any suggestions on de-greasing, cleaning (laquer
> > thinner?), priming, and
> > paint types.  We have a CaseIH dealer close, so I do
> > have a source for red
> > paint.  We have seen a video from J+D Productions on
> > painting but are just
> > looking for more suggestions.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > Jim Kordick
> > 2964 260th St.
> > St. Charles,  IA   50240
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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> >
>
>
> Andy Glines
> Evansville, IN
>
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