[Ford-ferguson] TO-20 Hydraulic
Daniel W. Oehmke
doehmke at pressenter.com
Tue Sep 28 04:08:34 PDT 2004
I have a hydraulic adapter that bolts to the right side of the main
case/touch control cover of my TO-20. It's part of the Ferguson manure
loader and essentially provided a splitter to the left and right
hydraulic cylinders for the loader.
The adapter is now installed --- without the loader --- and I tried to
lift a single cyclinder New Holland Haybine but the haybine didn't
budge, though the lift arms on the Ferguson System went up and down
fine.
Is there a setting or adjustment that I need to make somewhere? Or is
the haybine too heavy for the TO-20 hydraulic system?
Thanks,
Dan Oehmke
Welch, MN
-----Original Message-----
From: ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:ford-ferguson-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Mike Sloane
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 3:49 PM
To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list
Subject: Re: [Ford-ferguson] Ford 640
I had another brand of tractor that had a similar problem that drove me
crazy trying to isolate. It turned out that the PO had manage to drop
the metal end cap from his gas can spout into the tank. It floated
around on the bottom, the same color as the inside of the tank and was
all but impossible to see. I eventually spotted it when the tractor
quit, and it was lying right on top of the fuel inlet. I fished it out
with a magnet, and the tractor hasn't missed a beat since. A leaf or
piece of scale could do the same thing.
The only other common cause of that kind of problem is an overheated
coil or condenser. If your tractor has been converted to 12 volts but a
ballast resistor wasn't installed in-line with the wire going to the
coil from the ignition switch, the higher voltage will (not may) cause
problems eventually. (Technical name of this is "fried" coil) Next time
it quits on you, see if you can touch the coil; it should be warm but
not hot. If it is too hot to put your hand on, that could very well be
your problem. Before you spend the money for a new coil, make sure that
the ballast resistor is in place, or better yet buy a 12 volt coil that
is labeled as having an internal resistor.
Mike
Don Brown wrote:
>
> My Ford 640 dies without any consistent pattern that I can figure out.
> Sometimes I can run it for a couple of hours before it dies, other
times
> I'll run it ten minutes and it dies. I've always gotten it restarted
> but I've always tinkered with something before I tried to restart it
so
> I may have masked any clues that would be helpful. A mechanic friend
> suggested that the screen on top of the fuel cut off valve might be
> occluded, restricting the last few gallons of gas, so I filled the
gas
> tank but the problem persisted. I pulled the plugs and they had a
thick
> coat of carbon, which I scrapped off. I pulled the coil wire and
> noticed a whitish coat of oxidation on the inside of the connection.
I
> know it shouldn't be there but I don't know the cause. The sediment
> bowl was clean and gas runs freely from the tank to the bowl. The
> motor does not burn oil, it idles good and has normal power. I will
> replace the plugs, plug wires, coil/distributor wire, points and
> condenser.. The dust cover in the distributor is torn and I'll
replace
> it but can that cause a problem? I assume that a distributor problem
> would be indicated by performance, am I correct? The 12 volt system
was
> installed about four years ago and the tractor ran fine until the last
> few weeks. The most recent repairs were a new head gasket and a
rebuilt
> radiator.
> Any ideas?
> Don
>
>
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>
--
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
Email: (mikesloane at verizon.net)
Website: <http://www.geocities.com/mikesloane>
Blog: <www.mikesloane.blogspot.com
Tractor images: <www.fotki.com/mikesloane>
Work: none - retired
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and the government
when it deserves it. -Mark Twain, author and humorist (1835-1910)
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