[Farmall] Starting 340
Larry L Hardesty
hardestyll at unk.edu
Tue Sep 14 16:12:36 PDT 2004
Mike, Thanks. I cleaned the connections (tried the jumper cable idea and
got a quicker start) and then put on a heavier ground cable. It does
better now. I had a pretty heavy cable from the negative to the starter
(a long distance), but the positive ground cable was not as heavy. I did
several things so hard to tell if any one or several of them did the
trick.
Thanks much.
Larry
Larry Hardesty
Kearney, Nebraska 68849-2240
308-865-8535
308-865-8722 fax
hardestyll at unk.edu
Mike Sloane <msloane at att.net>
Sent by: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
09/11/2004 01:52 PM
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Re: [Farmall] Starting 340
Larry L Hardesty wrote:
> Folks, Perhaps you can solve my problem. My Farmall 340 (gas) has
always
> been a reluctant starter. I had it overhauled a few years ago and have
> only about 100 hours on it. It is 6-volt. Whenever I go to start it,
it
> barely turns over and then usually starts. I put a new battery on it
> recently, and same problem. Always acts like it will barely turn over.
I
> disconnect the battery whenever I shut it off (have a couple of quick
> disconnects on it).
Been there, done that with my 340 (see the archives). I rebuilt the
starter, but in a brand new battery, and it still cranked slowly. I
think that the problem centers around the use of a battery mounted about
as far from the stater as you could put it and still have it attached to
the tractor. :-) The ground connections are the critical item here, as
steel (or cast iron, in this case) is a relatively poor conductor of
electricity. Believe it or not, it would hot hurt to remove several of
the transmission cover bolts (especially the one used for grounding the
battery) and clean them thoroughly until they are bright (instead of
rusty), spray some penetrating oil in the holes, and snut them up tight.
It also wouldn't hurt to do the same with the bolts/studs attaching the
transmission to the engine, etc., and also the starter bolts.
OR You could replace the short ground cable with a long one that goes
directly to the bolt holding the starter to the engine. You need to use
the extra large size cable with a soldered lug on the starter side and a
"heavy duty" or copper/brass battery clamp at the other end. Make sure
the negative cable going to the solenoid is in good shape also (look for
bulges in the insulation, which indicate corrosion underneath). Finally,
someone suggested the use of "heavy duty" jumper cables to parallel the
regular cables; I have never found any jumper cables that are heavy
enough to do a proper job on 6 volt battery connections.
By the way, I just returned from vacation and discovered that someone
filled up my "inbox" with a couple of huge image files, so that WorldNet
started sending out messages to all sendere that they wouldn't accept
any more messages. I have now dumped the files and apologize to anyone
who send me messages after 9/9 and had them bounce.
Mike
>
> Where should I start looking first, second, third, etc. I think I have
> fairly heavy duty cables from the battery to the ground, etc. (it is a
> positive ground system).
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Larry Hardesty
> Kearney, Nebraska
>
--
Mike Sloane
Allamuchy NJ
Email: (msloane at att.net)
Website: <http://www.geocities.com/mikesloane>
Blog: <www.mikesloane.blogspot.com
Tractor images: <www.fotki.com/mikesloane>
Work: none - retired
Our elections are free, it's in the results where eventually we pay.
-Bill Stern, sports announcer (1907-1971)
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