[AT] OT-Problem with Cub Cadet 1641

Wed Sep 8 07:49:07 PDT 2004

LOL, Steve.  That's on a par with coming across a chainsaw that
"wouldn't run right" and then finding that someone had tried to adjust
the mixture with the choke in the "on" position.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Steve W.
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2004 12:32 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] OT-Problem with Cub Cadet 1641

Don't you just hate those "deals". I picked up a 1 year old 4500 watt
Honda generator at a yard sale. The owner said he had enough
of the POS because it didn't run right. Turns out he had put mixed gas
in it and it loaded up on oil. New plug and some SeaFoam and
about an hour labor plus the original 100 bucks......

Steve Williams
Near Cooperstown NY

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry D. Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 9:43 PM
Subject: RE: [AT] OT-Problem with Cub Cadet 1641

> Pull the starter, Mike.  If it won't turn over with a direct
connection
> to the lug on the side of the starter motor, there's a real problem.
I
> found a mower like this once (it happened to be at a Cub Cadet
> dealership) where the crank was actually stuck.  The dealer was
> convinced that the engine had a broken piston in it and cut me a real
> deal on it.  When I got it home, I found all that had happened was
that
> the plastic starter gear had sheared off a couple of teeth and they
had
> jammed in the flywheel.  It cost me something like 68 cents to repair
> the thing.
>
> Larry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Mike S
> Meulenberg
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 7:13 PM
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT-Problem with Cub Cadet 1641
>
> Ok,
> Here's what I tried tonight. I took apart the battery connections just
> to
> be sure their was no corrosion. I checked the plug on the back of the
> ignition switch, and there was no melting of any kind. While I was
doing
> this, I had the battery on a charger to get it fully charged. I put
> everything back together and tried the jumper method. Here are the
> results all done with the key off:
>
> 1. Positive bat. terminal to the first terminal on the solenoid - no
> cranking plenty of sparks
> 2. Positive bat. terminal to the second terminal on the solenoid - no
> cranking still plenty sparks
> 3. Positive bat. terminal directly to the starter lug - sparks, no
> cranking.
> Did I do something wrong here?
> I also pulled the battery out of my truck and hooked it up the best I
> could, solenoid fluttered, only much faster. Any other ideas, I'm glad
I
> have a backup mower....
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
>
> On Tue, 7 Sep 2004 14:49:41 -0500 "Larry D. Goss"
> <rlgoss at evansville.net>
> writes:
> > Umph.  You're right, Steve.  I had forgotten about the "melted
> > connector" problem.  I've run into several of them on Cub Cadets.
> >
> > Larry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Steve W.
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2004 1:32 PM
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> > Subject: Re: [AT] OT-Problem with Cub Cadet 1641
> >
> > Mike,
> >  Common problem on the Cubs is the connector on the back of the
> > ignition
> > switch. They tend to melt. My 1641 had melted the plastic connector
> > to
> > the point that the battery didn't charge and the tractor would just
> > die
> > without warning. What you do is pull the battery out, reach in and
> > pull
> > the connector off the back of the switch. You will probably find
> > the
> > plastic is fried. All is not lost though. The outer plastic is the
> > same
> > as the one used on the PTO switch. On mine the three places for the
> > PTO
> > connections were fine and I just pulled the spade connectors out
> > using a
> > small screwdriver to release them and swapped the plastic shields
> > around, make sure you clean the connectors good and remove the
> > switch
> > and clean up the rusty connectors on the back as well. When you put
> > them
> > back together it is a good idea to use some grease to keep it from
> > occurring again. Also I swapped out the inline blade fuse holder
> > since
> > the connections in it were not in good shape either.
> > If you need any other info just holler. I have the FSM and parts
> > listings for the 1641 and all most attachments as well.
> >
> > Steve Williams
> > Near Cooperstown NY
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Mike S Meulenberg" <msm10301 at juno.com>
> > To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Monday, September 06, 2004 10:03 PM
> > Subject: [AT] OT-Problem with Cub Cadet 1641
> >
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > > I have an interesting problem with my mowing tractor, a Cub Cadet
> > 1641. I
> > > was mowing with the tractor, and shut it off, when I went to
> > restart
> > it ,
> > > all I got was a rapid clicking sound from the solenoid next to
> > the
> > > battery. I've checked all the grounds I could find, and cleaned
> > them
> > up,
> > > still the problem persists. The voltage reading across the
> > battery
> > > terminals is 12.07 v. The battery had been getting weaker for the
> > last
> > > several weeks, sometimes requiring a jump to start the tractor. I
> > tried
> > > charging the battery, as well as jumping the tractor from my
> > truck
> > with
> > > no success. I called the dealer's service dept. and they thought
> > it
> > might
> > > be an ignition switch, or a bad ground.
> > > I'm not sure how to test an ignition switch. Any thoughts.
> > >
> > > Thanks much,
> > > Mike
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