[Farmall] Ignition Systems 101 was: Farmall C question

Stan Bass headlight at erols.com
Wed Sep 1 06:09:27 PDT 2004


I would vote to see your thoughts on this, Cliff. Now this is from
memory... but I recall the last condensers I checked were about 1.2 uF
for the Farmalls and about 0.2 uF for the Cub Cadets?  And coil
selection (1-1/2, 3, or 4-1/2 ohm coils). Our old tractors seem to draw
about 4 Amps, so I know our old 6V coils are about 1-1/2 ohm and the 12V
ones are about 3 ohms; but I read somewhere (wish I had saved it off)
that single cylinder motors like the Kohlers in IH Cub Cadets use a
4-1/2 ohm coil (but I've checked several and all so far have 3 ohm
coils?). Trying to remember what it was based on, voltage, current,
cylinders and RPM range? Don't worry about going over anybody's head,
that's how we learn. My only comment from doing this in the past, is
please state when things in an explanation are over-simplified in the
interest of brevity. That way if someone is researching it further on
their own, they know where the back holes are ;)
Thanks,
Stan(VA).

cliff king wrote:
> 
> In my garage, which I operate as a business, we don't guess. Put yourself in the customer's shoes standing there listening to someone tell you why the bill is outrageously high for a bunch of parts installed that didn't fix the problem. Use a test light and do some diagnostics instead of being a "parts changer at someone else's expense". I would lay odds on the condenser being bad. Practically every mag I overhaul has to have the coil and condenser replaced. The condenser is a miniature storage capacitor for the coil. The point set is simply a mechanically operated switch that turns the voltage stored on and off. I would say that 9 out of 10 mags have points that are ok, just need the mountains filed off to operate at the proper clearance. I could go into more detail as to the proper microfared capacity matching of the condenser to the number of windings that are in an ignition coil...but I'm afraid I would lose some of the more simple minded folk on the list.
> Cliff
> 
> "soffiler at myeastern.com" <soffiler at myeastern.com> wrote:
> In the trade, that's called "plug and chug". Take an
> educated guess, replace parts, repeat as necessary until
> problem is solved. It is generally considered a less
> desirable problem-solving technique versus doing some basic
> diagnostic work. I realize that sometimes it's just more
> convenient, or less intellectually taxing, to use the plug
> and chug approach.
> 
> Steve O.
> 
> From: "Jeff & Ginny Pomije"
> 
> > I had this happen with my Super C. The points and
> > condenser were replaced and it ran fine.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> >
> > -------- Original Message --------
> >
> > ==> From: "Kevin Bish"
> > ==> Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 08:21:19 -0400
> >
> > I was using my C the other day when it just died. I
> > checked for spark at the plugs and didn't have any, no
> > spark from the coil either. Tried 2 more coils with no
> > luck, the last coil I tried was off of my Super M which I
> > know it works fine. Could it be the condenser maybe? The
> > points look to be fine also. Doesn't appear to have any
> > wires loose or grounding out. It has a 12 volt generator
> > charging system. Any suggestions? Thanks Kevin.
> _______________________________________________



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