[AT] OT - Old Chimney Question

Fri Oct 22 13:32:52 PDT 2004

There were also many German immigrants to the region I live in. They 
came largely in the late 1700's up into the early to mid 1800's and 
settled in the region that is still informally called "Pennsylvania 
Dutch" country (Dutch being a misnomer for their language "Deutch"). The 
house I live in was built by German immigrants as best I can determine 
(their name was "Delp") shortly after 1800. It is said that many of them 
learned of this land that was relatively inexpensive and workable for 
farming from the many German ("Hessian") mercinaries who fought for the 
British in the Revolutionary War and later returned to europe (There was 
no actual country of "Germany" until much later)..

Rob
NE PA

Larry D. Goss wrote:

>What you're describing is very similar to the way houses were built by
>the German-Russian immigrants that came to this country in the last
>century, Mattias.  Oops, I guess we've passed another century mark -- it
>happened back in the 1800's and very early 1900's.  These were Germans
>who were enticed to settle on farms north of the Caspian Sea (Volga
>river region) during the reign of Catherine the Great.  A hundred and
>fifty or so years later, they were essentially deported to the United
>States through Kaliningrad and/or Hamburg to Boston and New York.  They
>then settled in the Dakota's and migrated north and south from there.
>You can find traces of their culture all the way from Colorado up
>through Alberta and Saskatchewan.  My grandmother commented in her
>diaries about the arrival of their "Germans" whom they hired to help
>work the fields west of Longmont during the sugar beet harvest.  This
>culture was also highlighted in "Centennial" by James Michener.
>
>Larry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Kessen
>Mattias (Road SE)
>Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 12:59 AM
>To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>Subject: SV: [AT] OT - Old Chimney Question
>
>And, yes you
>can successfully have more than one heat source feeding into the same
>flue and have all of them draw correctly regardless of which ones happen
>to be working.
>
>Yes we do that every winter no problem. In all older small houses round
>here it's like that. Our chimney is probably pre 1840-50 since it's
>originally made for a big fireplace in the kitchen(only room at least in
>the winter) Then in the 1830's the oillamps appeared and made it
>possibble to use stove without living in darkness all winter. O.K. I
>know that timeline isn't chronological but I don't suppose our house was
>one of the first in the country to get a kitchen stove ;-)
>
>/Mattias
>
>-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
>Från: Larry D. Goss [mailto:rlgoss at evansville.net]
>Skickat: den 22 oktober 2004 03:22
>Till: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
>Ämne: RE: [AT] OT - Old Chimney Question
>
>
>Super heat and a "rip roaring fire" can make a marginal chimney work,
>but a well designed chimney doesn't need that.  Ever.
>
>Chimneys do indeed have a back draft.  Even the pressurized ones in
>power plants act like super-sized pop bottles and "whistle".  The
>frequency is so low that you can't hear it, but a monometer placed
>almost anywhere inside a flue will show cyclical variations in air
>pressure as the wind blows by. If you've ever watched the plume off a
>stack from any distance, you'll notice that it appears to wave up and
>down as it leaves the chimney.  If you pay attention to any one small
>section of the plume, you'll notice that it proceeds in a straight line
>as soon as it leaves the chimney top.  The waviness of the plume is an
>optical illusion based on the fact that the pressure inside the stack is
>constantly fluctuating and the smoke leaves at a different vertical
>speed depending on the internal pressure.  Under some conditions the
>column of air heading out the stack will not just change its upward
>speed, but it will actually reverse as the chimney "whistles."  That's
>when you get smoke inside the house.  A smoke shelf (smoke chamber)
>helps because it effectively makes the chimney into a "stopped flute"
>much the same as the organ pipe of the same name.  But making sure the
>top of the chimney is clear of the pressure fluctuations caused by the
>wind passing over the surface of your roof is also helpful for exactly
>the same reason as the fact that the pitot tube on an airplane wing is
>never mounted close to the wing surface.
>
>This is more about chimneys than anyone probably wants to read, but the
>bottom line is that chimney design is not guesswork.  You can predict
>ahead of time what certain changes in a flue will make.  And, yes you
>can successfully have more than one heat source feeding into the same
>flue and have all of them draw correctly regardless of which ones happen
>to be working.  There are guidelines to be followed for that.  I don't
>know exactly where to turn for the complete instructions I remember
>seeing when I was a kid, but Better Homes and Gardens is one of the
>sources we used at that time.  Their "Back To Basics" book came out a
>generation or so later and it gives some of the fundamentals, but there
>is a more comprehensive source somewhere.
>
>Larry
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
>DAVIESW739 at aol.com
>Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 6:13 PM
>To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>Subject: Re: [AT] OT - Old Chimney Question
>
>Heat is what causes the chimney to draw if you don't get it hot enough
>it  
>won't work.  A small stove in a large chimney just won't do the job.
>Also  
>always start out with a good rip roaring fire to heat the chimney then
>cut it  back 
>this will get things started and the smoke will go up not down.  A
>longer 
>chimney won't work if you don't have enough heat to get it  working.
>
>When I put my stove in my house in southern Oregon I had a 10 in  1
>pitch and 
>the expert said that I needed to get the chimney up high enough so  that
>the 
>wind wouldn't curl around and come back down the chimney, I wonder
>where he 
>learned that bunch of BS from. We had 80 mph winds up on that hill I
>don't 
>think they could curl around and blow back on themselves. Now if the
>wall  was 
>straight up that would be another matter. 
> 
>The main thing is to match the size of the chimney to the amount or size
>of  
>the stove to get proper heat rise from it. A good stove shop should have
>the  
>details for what you need.
>
>Walt Davies
>Cooper Hollow Farm
>Monmouth,  OR 97361
>503 623-0460 
> 
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