[AT] OT Barn floor question

Thu Oct 21 19:50:11 PDT 2004

I'm in Evansville, Indiana, Charlie.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of charlie hill
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 5:03 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] OT Barn floor question

Hi Larry,

I forget where you are located.   Around here cypress and juniper is
still 
available and while it is a bit pricey it will last for a long time. 
Juniper is similar to cypress in it's weatherability and rot resistance
but 
is lighter.  Juniper is something of a regional name and I think it is
the 
same stuff as Northern White Pine or something they call pine up in the
N/E.

I never built or even messed with  a windmill but I know what to build
boats 
out of.  I can't imagine why anyone recommended poplar unless it is 
different poplar than we have here or for use in a much drier region.
In 
our humidity and heat poplar wouldn't last 2 years I bet.   It makes
nice 
furniture  though!

Charlie

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Larry D. Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'" 
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 10:40 AM
Subject: RE: [AT] OT Barn floor question

> Thanks, Charlie -- and everybody else who has chimed in.  When I
> restored this windmill the FIRST time, I was led to believe that there
> were two woods that were preferred -- cedar and poplar.  I had both
> available, but chose to use poplar because it's a LOT clearer.  BTW-
> this advice came from a windmill historical and restoration group.  I
> figured they knew what they were talking about.  Well as it turns out,
> there probably isn't a worse wood to use for exterior work than
poplar,
> and that's what I used.
>
> The whole thing fell apart in about five years.  Now I've got to start
> from scratch and do it all over again.  In talking with a wood worker
> this week, he recommended redwood or cedar.  I don't like either one.
> Redwood splits too easily, and cedar has too many knots.  I really
would
> prefer teak or cypress.  Now, I'm talking BIG BUCKS!
>
> What I'm more likely to do is to use the treated lumber that Lowe's
and
> Home Depot sell for deck construction.  There was no way I would have
> considered this material when I was employed at the university and
using
> their wood shop for all the mill work --- no way to isolate the area
to
> protect people and the environment from arsenic.  But I have a contact
> with a complete woodshop with filtered dust collectors on everything.
> If he'll work with me to do the resawing and other operations in his
> shop, then I may go that route.  I wanted some feedback on the
synthetic
> stuff so I would know whether or not that's a viable option.  It
sounds
> like it isn't.  I don't want the salt treated lumber either.  That's
> what I had in the floor of my trailer, and it didn't last.
>
> I notice that Home Depot is now posting a safety sheet by the bins
where
> they store their treated lumber.  It's kind of a consumer's edition of
> an MSDS and gives all the precautions to be followed in working with
the
> arsenic-treated stuff.
>
> Does anybody have a good source for cypress?  THAT'S what I really
would
> like to use.  I doubt very much that I would ever find locust or Osage
> Orange in a form and in enough quantity to do the job.
>
> FWIW, the windmill is a Flint & Walling model 26 on a 35-foot steel
> tower.  Ten-foot diameter wheel, seven-foot tail.
>
> Larry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of charlie
hill
> Sent: Thursday, October 21, 2004 6:13 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT Barn floor question
>
> Larry,  I was looking at some of that stuff yesterday.  It was used
for
> parking pads at some beach cottages where there are restrictions on
how
> much
> ground can be covered by concrete or asphalt.  The decking has been
> there
> for a few years and it doesn't seem to be weathering any better than
> salt
> treated wood.   Some of the boards are starting to warp and twist a
bit.
>
> Also, a friend of mine used the stuff extensively for decks and
benches
> off
> the rear of his new house.  (now about 5 years old)  I was over there
> last
> year and noticed that I could drag my finger nails over the decking
> lightly
> and scrape the surface off.  It appears that UV has begun to attack
the
> surface.
>
> I'd think you would be better off with cedar or juniper for your
> windmill.
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Larry D. Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
> To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 11:57 PM
> Subject: RE: [AT] OT Barn floor question
>
>
>> What's your experience with it, Warren?  Seriously, I MAY want to use
> it
>> for some of the wheel and tail of a windmill.  If it can be machined
> and
>> still be impervious to weathering, it would be good for some parts.
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of WF Smith
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 10:46 PM
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Subject: RE: [AT] OT Barn floor question
>>
>>> I wonder how a floor made of the new synthetic decking material that
>>> Home Depot and Lowe's has for sale would work?  It would let the
> urine
>>
>> I wouldn't recommend that stuff for an outhouse, and that's putting
it
>> mildly.
>>
>> Warren
>>
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