[AT] Shop heating
Robinson
robinson at svs.net
Thu Nov 11 06:20:28 PST 2004
At 08:45 PM 11/10/04, you wrote:
>--- Spencer Yost <yostsw at atis.net> wrote:
>
> > I cranked up the shop's Seigler oil stove tonight
> > for the first time this
> > season. 36 degrees and falling outside but it is a
> > comfy 62 inside.
>
>Spencer, I do like it toasty/comfy when I get to spend
>a day in my shop. We have both a crawl-space furnace
>(mounted from the ceiling) to get things started, and
>a wood stove to keep it warm. We just like the heat
>and "ambiance" (big word :->) of a wood fire better
>but the stove is a little small for the shop. Both
>were seconds and so cost very little when purchased
>many years ago. If I were to build new today I would
>definetly go with floor heat, MUCH nicer on the feet,
>generaly very comfortable, and real cheeeeeap to
>operate.
>Still, would have to have a stove to sit around and
>have a cup of hot chocolate, ya know? Just wouldn't
>be quite right otherwise.
>Oh, not really a 'by the way' but, nice stove you have
>there. From the 50's ?
>Keep up the fine work you do for us,
>
>
>=====
>Dave Myers
>Paw Paw, Michigan
>
>Being crazy just helps me keep my sanity!
>
>
>
That is probably a 4 man space heater... (takes 4 guys to carry
it) :-) That company liked a lot of cast iron. They were the Cadillac
of space heaters. Most others used very little cast iron. Many had none at
all but were made of stamped sheet metal right down to the door and hinges.
I believe that those oil space heaters started showing up in the 1930's in
big numbers. I would guess that yours is late 1940's to early 1950's. About
the early 1950's they all started making them lower and wider and so that
they didn't stick out into a room as far. Many had a blower which made a
world of difference in spreading the heat around. Almost all of them were
what were called "pot" burners. Not to be confused with a
"bong"... ;-) They were quite efficient and when the draft was right
would burn with the whole burner inside filled with an almost clear blue
flame. They should always be used with an "atmospheric draft control" (a
little swinging door controlled by adjusting a weight that lets air into
the stove pipe) mounted where the stove pipe comes out the back or in the
first foot of stove pipe. The stove pipe should be checked for carbon
build-up much like checking for creosote in a wood burning flue. When ran a
lot at low fire they can build up with an oily carbon that can catch fire
and burn very hot. You learn how to tap the pipe and tell if it is getting
a build-up. Even in milder weather you should burn it hot every few days to
keep it clean. They can also get a deposit on the bottom inside of the
burner where the oil dribbles in. Every oil stove I ever saw has a "Tee" in
the line at the back where a steel line runs into the pot so that you can
take a plug out and clear the pot end of the line. If not cleaned now and
then (sometimes only once a year) it can get plugged and stop all oil flow
into the pot. We used an old coat hanger wire for years buy it didn't clean
well. Finally my grandfather who was tool maker for IHC in Indy got several
very long 1/4" drill bits from work that worked great for cleaning them. On
the one we had the line slanted down into the stove and you could remove
the plug to clean the line without shutting the stove down. We kept an old
pie pan handy to sit under the clean-out to catch the dribbles and crud
pulled from the line. Another good simple cleaning tool I made for an old
two burner "Super-Flame" I used in a shop years ago was just a piece of
1/4" rod about 16" long with an "Ell" about 2" long bent on one end and the
other end ground off at a long angle to produce a cutting edge. Some of
them were fed from a bulk tank outside but many were used with a small tank
mounted on the back of the stove that you filled almost daily. A few simple
stoves just used a common valve to control oil flow but most of the better
ones used a carburetor of sorts that had a float valve and usually a filter
that needs to be cleaned occasionally. Having a float kept the stove from
filling up to the door with oil and running out on the floor if the flame
went. :-) I used to have an old duo therm with a bulb type thermostat
control that mounted on the carb and operated the tiny pin that stuck up
out of the carb. Some of the later ones were made so that you could have an
electric thermostat mounted on a wall across the room somewhere.
There were a number of wick type kerosene burners, some vented and
many unvented. The best would burn with an all blue flame.
In addition to Siegler (sp?) and Super Flame a few others were
Duo-Therm, Monarch, Warm-Morning and several lines sold by Sears, Wards etc.
"farmer"
I am the list owner of the following public email lists:
Allis_Chalmers
Budget_muzzleloading
Cheap-Shelters
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FrugalFunWoodworking
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Some are pretty quiet, some are very busy. Member counts range from 32 to 570.
All are on Yahoo Groups and can be found with a search at:
<http://groups.yahoo.com>
Also a newly created one called "100 Acre Farming" targeting folks who
operate farms from about 75 acres to 150 acres. Those are not iron clad
numbers. Midwestern farms in this class require a full line of farm
equipment unlike much smaller farms but have only a little in common with
the much larger farms common today.
Francis Robinson
Central Indiana, USA
robinson at svs.net
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