[AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!

[charlie hill]

I wonder if anyone  has ever tried using some sort of high frequency
vibrator against a valve face to break it loose.  I can't think of the exact
device to do the job off the top of my head but it seems like it should
work.  Something along the lines of a concrete vibrator but just smaller.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!


> Hmmmm You make a good point Phil.  grins
> Sorry about that.  Depending on the design he can probably turn the engine
> upside or on its side, block up a few holes and get the lifter gallery to
> hold a good bit of penetrant.
>
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <pga2 at hot1.net>
> To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 1:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!
>
>
> > Uhh, Charlie, it's a flathead engine. The valves are in the block.
> > That would require just a bit more penetrant and a slightly larger vat.
> :o)
> >
> > Phil
> >
> > > Spencer I would probably try putting the entire head in a vat of
> > > penetrating oil/diesel fuel concoction and letting it soak for a few
> > > days.  Then try heat and what ever force you can apply.   Don't know
if
> > > that will work or not.
> > >
> > > Good luck.
> > >
> > > Charlie
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Spencer Yost" <Spencer.Yost at piedmontsystems.com>
> > > To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 12:16 PM
> > > Subject: [AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!
> > >
> > <Snip>
> > >> E - Rusted Valves:    Anyone have any great tricks for removing
rusted
> > > valves from a flat head engine?      Things I have thought
about/tried:
> > >>
> > >> 1 - This is a continental engine that has press fit valve guides, so
> > > removing the entire valve assembly by removing a clip, like a Ford, is
> > > not possible.
> > >>
> > >> 2 - Removing the cam so they can be driven out from below is not
> > >> possible
> > > because enough valves are stuck you can spin the cam in enough
> > > combinations to bypass all the tappets.
> > >>
> > >> 3 - Tappets are small and the tappets/valves assembly cannot be
driven
> > >> out
> > > from below with the cam in place because the cam lobes cover them up
> > > pretty completely.
> > >>
> > >> 4 Steel wedges.  I have never had valves that wouldn't budge after
> > >> driving
> > > a steel wedge between the end of the valve and the tappet.   Broke the
> > > wedge on one try and broke the adjustable bolt in the tappet on the
next
> > > try (-;
> > >>
> > >> I was hoping someone knew of something that might somehow bite into
the
> > > valve from above (horrors of sodium filled valves inserted here) and
> > > pull from above.   I was able to remove all keepers though.
> > >>
> > >> Take care,
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Spencer
> >
> >
> >
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