[AT] OT-seeking info/Thanks

[CEE VILL]

Based on your statement, Steve, I guess plan "B" just kicked in.  Do you use 
galvanized fittings or just iron?  Looks like it would be possible to cut 
off the hose behind the crimp and just replace it from there to the pump.  
The hose looks solid and that will avoid disturbing the heater. I would 
appreciate your opinion on that plan.

My Mrs. keeps reminding me about the leaky heater core in the van that isn't 
driven in the winter.  You may recall that conversation a while back.  While 
at the dealer today, I asked for a "ball park" quote to replace it.  Now I 
know it will end up being do it myself.  Seems like they were thinking an 
engine transplant instead.

Thanks,
Charlie V.


>From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
>Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Subject: Re: [AT] OT-seeking info/Thanks
>Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2004 19:14:19 -0500
>
>Charlie,
>   Good Luck. The QD connector stands about a 99% chance of breaking off
>flush with the top of the pump or the intake manifold. The ones on the
>heater hoses do the same thing. I replace them with standard fittings
>and hose. GM has a known problem with the aluminum ones, Just like they
>have a known problem with DexCool and don't tell folks.  Oh for those
>interested the Dex problem is that it has to be changed out just like
>the original green stuff. GM has told shops about the fact that it turns
>acidic when used in dissimilar metal engines. And have now started to
>recommend replacement at 30-45 thousand miles. I just flush the system
>REAL good and change it over, better heat and easier to deal with.
>
>Steve Williams
>Near Cooperstown NY
>
>

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