[AT] Allis Chalmers Model G decals

[Kiser, Rick]

The soap thing really works, I've done several sets that way and they
all lined up when I finished! Squeegee-ing is the tough part, vinyl will
stretch easily, so you have to take care when you do that part.

Go to www.jordedecals.com and there is a good write up on how to do it
there.

RickinNW-WA

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Bivens [mailto:bivenshill at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 2:24 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Allis Chalmers Model G decals

Cecil,
Whoa! Don't put those vinyl decals on yet. I am not
trying to contradict anything that Phil said and I do
not own a sign shop but I do know quite a bit about
vinyl lettering. I have been in charge of the
marketing for my company for the past six years and
have had a lot of vinyl signs made. We spent
$40,000.00 in signs last year. A very good friend of
mine works at the sign company we use. I have watched
him and helped him work on a lot of signs. He is a
very meticulous and professional craftsman and has
done vinyl for many years. Most of the work he does is
on commercial and government vehicles. He NEVER puts
vinyl on dry. What he does is that he has a spray
bottle of water with just a tiny bit of dishwashing
detergent in it. He sprays the surface that he is
putting the vinyl on and also the sticky side of the
vinyl. Then he puts it on and he can slide the vinyl
around where he wants it. Then when it is placed where
he wants it he uses a squeegee made specifically for
this purpose and squeegees the water and bubbles out.
I know it may sound strange but this works and is the
accepted way to put vinyl on in the sign industry. The
first time I ever heard of this was back in the
1970's. A friend of mines parents had some vinyl signs
made for their fleet of trucks. They were going to
save a little money and put them on theirselves. Well
the first one they put on was all wrinkled up and they
tried to pull it off and it messed up their paint job.
They were pretty upset and they called the company
that had made their signs and they told them exactly
what I told you above. They tried this on the rest of
their signs and they had no more trouble. I have also
had some experience with Mylar and I will never buy
any more Mylar decals. Die-cut vinyl is the only way
to go.
Tim Bivens
Glen Rose, Tex.

--- Phil Vorwerk <pvorwerk at newulmtel.net> wrote:
> Cecil -
> 
> You're right about the vinyl cut lettering not being
> movable once it's down,
> but it isn't really much of a problem.  With vinyl
> lettering the trick is to
> first tape the lettering in the right location
> before removing the backing.
> Tape it along the top edge so that you can "hinge"
> it on the tape.  After
> getting it placed you can hinge it up, remove the
> backing, and work it down
> from top to bottom to help avoid bubbles.  If the
> logo is separate letters
> and longer than 6" inches you can make it easier by
> taping it in place, then
> separate the lettering into smaller sections and
> hinge them down
> individually.  If you are going onto an irregular
> surface you can use a
> wetting agent to give you the ability to work the
> vinyl into any dips.  A
> heat gun can help to get the lettering to conform
> around things that stick
> above the surface, such as rivets.  I hope I
> explained this in an
> understandable manner  (I've owned a sign shop for
> about 15 years, so I've
> done a little bit of vinyl work......)
> 
> Phil Vorwerk
> Sunny, cool Courtland, MN
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:14 AM
> Subject: [AT] Allis Chalmers Model G decals
> 
> 
> > I have a question as to which decals those of you
> with AC tractors
> > would put on a Model G being newly painted. What
> raised the question is
> > the fact that Maple Hunter offers decals two ways
> - vinyl cut or mylar.
> > Price is not a part of the question, BTW, although
> vinyl cuts are more
> > expensive.
> >
> > I just ordered and received a set of vinyl cut
> decals for my 52 Cub
> > and they look just fine. I have never seen the
> mylar decals so have no
> idea
> > which is better or if that is the case.
> >
> > The way it looks to me is that the big difference
> is the mylar decals
> > go on wet and can be moved after being put on if
> not exactly where they
> belong.
> > I think the vinyl cut are there to stay and you
> have one shot at getting
> them
> > in the right place.
> >
> > So, does anyone have an opinion as to which should
> go on the AC G?
> > Any opinions from anyone who has used either kind
> would be appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks in advance, Cecil
> > -- 
> > The nicest thing about telling the truth is you
> never have to wonder
> > what you said.
> >
> > Cecil E Monson
> > Lucille Hand-Monson
> > Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of
> the North Pole
> >
> > Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> >
> > Free advice
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> >
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at


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