[AT] Question

tomehrkam at houston.rr.com tomehrkam at houston.rr.com
Fri Mar 5 12:30:32 PST 2004


Mine is another brand. Suburban comes to mind. I have repaired
it twice.

Most of the newer ones have an exectric spark igniter.

The sequencing of the furnace is controlled by a ckt bd.

You need 12V and the thermostat contact closure for this ckt to work.

1. When the thermostat contacts close there is a delay of a few seconds.
2. The blower comes on for 5 or 10 seconds. This is to clean out any
   accumulated propane from the combustion chamber.
3. The gas valve should open and then she sparker will start. If the
   furnice lights the module knows this by passing an electrical current
   through the flame. It acts like a ohm meter. If the flame does not light
   then there will be no current.
4. If the flame does not light then the gas is turned off and the blower
runs
   for 10 or so seconds and it will try again. You get three chances. If it
   does not light in that time then the blower continues to run. "Freeze
your
   ass off mode" You have to turn the furnace off for a time. 10 to 20 
   seconds and then turn it back on. It will try three more times.

The electric modules are $100 to $200 to replace. After market modules 
are avalible. The are reported to last longer.

The first time mine failed the electronic module would not spark. I replaced
it and it worked for a while and the gas valve stuck. I had to remove the
furnace and disassemble the gas valve and clean the rubber seal. It has 
worked find since then. My trailer was made in 1988 so this has been the
norm
for a while. 

Check power and check the thermostat. Make sure the voltage is not low.
Should be 12 volts or more.

If nothing happens and the power is ther then the module is probably bad.
Many RV places have a tester for the module. Check grounds ect.

If the blower runs and it sparkes and still does not light then maybe your
valve is sticking. The valve is actually two valves and both have to open
to get gas to the burner. In my case only one stuck so you could still hear
the valve open.

Hope this helps. I think that most of the newer gas furnaces work about the
same way. One manufacturer seems to make most of the control modules. The
Reefer, and exectric light water heaters have simular controls.

Original Message:
-----------------
From: bwhdon acton at onramp.bz
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 11:31:14 -0800
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
Subject: Re: [AT] Question


Did you check the termal coupler, if it goes out the stove won't work on
most furnaces.

Don


----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Fink Sr" <nancydick at keyconn.net>
To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 11:31 AM
Subject: [AT] Question


>
> >
> >
> >Who do we have on the list that knows propane furnaces. The furnace in my
> >tractor hauler [[Motor home]]won't work it is a DuoTherm model
65930-0624.
> >It appears to have a electric igniter but does nothing when turning up
the
> >thermostat. I know nothing about this type what voltage should be at the
> >ignitor plug to ignite it. Do i need power any where else for it to come
> >on .?????????????????? All and any help appreciated. It has gas to the
> >valve can loosen line and smell it.
> >R Fink
> >PA
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>


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