[AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!

[pga2 at hot1.net]

Uhh, Charlie, it's a flathead engine. The valves are in the block.
That would require just a bit more penetrant and a slightly larger vat. :o)

Phil

> Spencer I would probably try putting the entire head in a vat of
> penetrating oil/diesel fuel concoction and letting it soak for a few
> days.  Then try heat and what ever force you can apply.   Don't know if
> that will work or not.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Spencer Yost" <Spencer.Yost at piedmontsystems.com>
> To: <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 12:16 PM
> Subject: [AT] Misc - including a tractor question at the end!
>
<Snip>
>> E - Rusted Valves:    Anyone have any great tricks for removing rusted
> valves from a flat head engine?      Things I have thought about/tried:
>>
>> 1 - This is a continental engine that has press fit valve guides, so
> removing the entire valve assembly by removing a clip, like a Ford, is
> not possible.
>>
>> 2 - Removing the cam so they can be driven out from below is not
>> possible
> because enough valves are stuck you can spin the cam in enough
> combinations to bypass all the tappets.
>>
>> 3 - Tappets are small and the tappets/valves assembly cannot be driven
>> out
> from below with the cam in place because the cam lobes cover them up
> pretty completely.
>>
>> 4 Steel wedges.  I have never had valves that wouldn't budge after
>> driving
> a steel wedge between the end of the valve and the tappet.   Broke the
> wedge on one try and broke the adjustable bolt in the tappet on the next
> try (-;
>>
>> I was hoping someone knew of something that might somehow bite into the
> valve from above (horrors of sodium filled valves inserted here) and
> pull from above.   I was able to remove all keepers though.
>>
>> Take care,
>>
>>
>> Spencer