[AJD] 35 D

[Gary Epps]

Dee, Duane and others who responded.  The D is no longer stuck.  After
freeing the last valve with a hydraulic press I removed the left
cylinder(the one I thought was stuck) rod cap and sure enough the right
piston was free.  I turned a large piece of oak (fire wood) into a cylinder
that would fit into the cylinder with close tolerance and used a BFH on it
and the piston moved at first about 1/8" and then an inch and then I could
move it forward to it's former position with the flywheel.

Today I rounded up the gaskets and may have it together by the weekend.  The
next question is what oil to use?  The owners manual says to use 50wt above
90*, 40wt from 65* to 90*, and 30wt from 32* to 65*.  Is anyone using a
multi-weight oil?  This is a tractor that will not be worked, just played
with and used for parades and such.  Is there a good reason not to use a
multi-weight oil?  If using a straight weight oil, would it make sense to go
a lighter weight such as 30wt for summer use since it won't be bubjected to
the beating that a working tractor would take.  Am I missing something
important  here?

I plan to button it up and put some diesel fuel in it and tow it around a
bit then drain and change the filter and fill with oil.  I'm getting anxious
to hear it run.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "DEE SCHUYLER" <web22hsz at verizon.net>
To: "Antique John Deere mailing list"
<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [AJD] 35 D


> Gary .
> Two reasons really, at least that is the way it was explained to me.
> One to seal against water leaks , and also to add a little slippage when
> tightning down the head bolts,
> Not sure pulling it is the way I would go ? you allready have the head off
> why not pull  the rod caps off and see which cyl  is stuck,
> then with the cap off back the flywheel away from the rod end and using a
> nice piston sized block give it a good smak or two
> with a BFH.
> If it is really stuck and you pull it you may just end up sliding the
wheels
> when pulling it. Or something could break? If they do not move when hit
with
> the block and hammer, I would just go ahead and pull the block off and
find
> a press, that is the cheapest  in the long run!
> Dee
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gary Epps" <garyepps at fidnet.com>
> To: <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 4:19 PM
> Subject: [AJD] 35 D
>
>
> > The '35 D is stuck worse than I thought.  I have the head off and the
> valves
> > unstuck.  I'm headed out to work on the pistons now.  I will try to
break
> > the pistons loose by using a bar on the flywheel.  If that fails I think
I
> > will put the head back on and fill the crankcase with diesel fuel and
try
> to
> > loosen the pistons by pulling it in gear.
> >
> > My question is what is the purpose of the lead washer under the nuts on
> the
> > head bolt studs?  The parts manual states that it takes 18 washer per
> head.
> > There are only 9 head bolt studs.  The implied suggestion is that it
takes
> > two per head.  Am I over-looking something?  Next question, Why two per
> head
> > bolt?  Any of you D guys have an answer for this?
> >
> > Gary
> > garyepps at fidnet.com
> > In the Ozark Mountains of South Central USA where both life and I move
at
> a
> > leisurely pace.
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
>
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