Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn tractor

[Gilbert Schwartz]

Charlie; The worst part is that it looks like it should work just fine but
it won't slip in any way. We even tried to take it apart enough to make it
slip and finally gave up on it. Went the old shear pin route. Gil
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2004 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT]AllisChalmersB-1lawn
tractor


> Gil,  I added one to my Woods brush cutter recently after I twisted the
> original PTO shaft up like a soda straw.  It took me a while to get it
> adjust right but I like it.  I'm glad you mentioned the rust problem.  I
> hadn't thought of that.  I think I'll make a habit of putting a little
> penetrating oil on mine.
>
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Gilbert Schwartz" <gschwartz1 at mchsi.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 8:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT]
AllisChalmersB-1lawn
> tractor
>
>
> > Older model Ford brush cutters use that friction plate clutch. The thing
> > works pretty good but it rusts to a solid mass if the cutter sits
outside
> > much. At that point the gearbox input shaft twists off between that
"used
> to
> > be a clutch" and the gearbox. Usually so close to the gearbox it
requires
> a
> > new input shaft. Don't ask how I know. Gil
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 3:52 PM
> > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis
> > ChalmersB-1lawn tractor
> >
> >
> > > Cecil,  remember that your D-12 III has (or probably has) a wet clutch
> in
> > > the PTO housing.  The clutch plates are mounted in an aluminum hub.
Ask
> > me
> > > how I know.
> > >
> > > I think part of the problem with roto-tillers is that people don't use
> > them
> > > correctly.  They are intended to prepare a seed bed in good soil.
They
> > > aren't meant to be scarifiers for digging up rocks, stumps, asphalt
and
> > > concrete.
> > >
> > > I wonder if there is room to put a friction clutch in front of your
> > > roto-tiller?  You know, the kind that you see on the drive shaft of
some
> > > brush cutters.
> > >
> > > Charlie
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Cecil E Monson" <cmonson at hvc.rr.com>
> > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2004 7:50 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Using tractor driven tillers (was Re: [AT] Allis Chalmers
> > > B-1lawn tractor
> > >
> > >
> > > > After reading the posts on using tractor mounted rototillers
> > > > I'll be sure to use the float position on the hydraulic controls.
With
> > > > my D-12 III, I can set the depth also but I don't want rocks tearing
> up
> > > > the PTO drive either so the float is a good idea.
> > > >
> > > > Cecil
> > > > -- 
> > > > The nicest thing about telling the truth is you never have to wonder
> > > > what you said.
> > > >
> > > > Cecil E Monson
> > > > Lucille Hand-Monson
> > > > Mountainville, New York   Just a little east of the North Pole
> > > >
> > > > Allis Chalmers tractors and equipment
> > > >
> > > > Free advice
> > > >
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