[AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?

charlie hill chill8 at cox.net
Mon Jul 26 13:26:41 PDT 2004


Sounds like the same kind of rig George.  I'm working from memory on how the
end of the one I saw was made.  I was a good ways from it.  It was one of
those fancy tire shops that won't let the customers go in the work area.   I
agree that the ether is just as good if not better.  The can is just more
consistent (unless you have lots of practice with the ether) and OSHA likes
it better.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Willer" <gwill at toast.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?


> Charlie,
>
> A local tire shop has one made from what appears to be a 40# propane tank.
> The outlet is a nozzle that is much wider than the flattened pipe would be
> and curved somewhat to fit the rim.  They tell me that they use it now
> instead of ether because of OSHA, not because the ether didn't work well.
> If it weren't for space limitations, I would have borrowed it for that
nasty
> situation with the flat tire against the wall.  As it is, I found how well
> ether works.
>
> George
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "charlie hill" <chill8 at cox.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 7:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?
>
>
> > Hi George,
> >
> > I've seen the ether method done a few time but haven't needed to do it
> > myself...yet.   I did see another method that works just as well at a
> local
> > truck tire store.  They had a standard portable air tank like you would
> take
> > from your compressor to the field to pump up a tire.
> > Standard EXCEPT that it had a 1" or so pipe welded into it with a ball
> valve
> > on the pipe.  The outlet from the ball valve was a piece of the same
size
> > pipe that was flattened on the end so that it could be placed inside the
> > bead.  I'd guess it was about 2 1/2" wide by 3/8 thick.  The guy stuck
the
> > end of the pipe in the gap between the bead and the rim and with the air
> > hose chucked up to the valve stem and running air he then opened the
ball
> > valve.
> >
> > It had the same effect as the ether method.  Quick and painless.
> >
> > Charlie
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "George Willer" <gwill at toast.net>
> > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 9:16 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?
> >
> >
> > > Lane,
> > >
> > > I really don't know about the danger, but it seems harmless enough to
> me.
> > > I'm only guessing, but I think the danger is greatly over blown.  I've
> not
> > > been able to find out how much maximum pressure can be developed by
the
> > > ignition, but I suspect it is much less than a tire or rim can stand.
> > Maybe
> > > someone like Steve O. knows.
> > >
> > > Here's what I have done.  Shoot a little more ether into the tire than
> you
> > > would use to start an engine.  With the valve core removed and a
clip-on
> > > tire chuck connected, stand safely aside and wave a lit propane torch
> near
> > > the opening.  If enough ether is inside with the air, it will give a
> > gentle
> > > "whump" and the bead will be seated, and the air already flowing from
> the
> > > chuck will begin the inflation.  Immediate inflation is very important
> > > before the gasses have time to cool.  If too little ether is present,
> the
> > > bead won't be seated, and if too much there won't be enough oxygen to
> burn
> > > it.  If too little is used and the bead isn't seated, it will be
> necessary
> > > to purge the products of combustion before another attempt.
> > >
> > > George Willer
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Lane Freeman" <lmfree at ptd.net>
> > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 8:03 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?
> > >
> > >
> > > > George, I've been hearing about the ether method and understand it
> needs
> > > to
> > > > be done correctly or it can be dangerous.  Can you explain exactly
how
> > it
> > > > should be done.  I've had my share of wrestling with beads over the
> > years
> > > > and mostly used a 10,000lb ratchet strap but the ether method sounds
> > like
> > > > something I need to learn.
> > > > Inquiring minds want to know!!
> > > >
> > > > Lane Freeman
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: "George Willer" <gwill at toast.net>
> > > > To: "Antique tractor email discussion group"
> > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 7:20 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Larry,
> > > > >
> > > > > I think you've just been lucky.  You haven't had to inflate  a 12
> ply
> > > tire
> > > > > that has sat flat for a few months on a loaded dozer trailer
that's
> in
> > a
> > > > > position that makes jacking or removal impossible.  (within 3" of
a
> > > wall)
> > > > > You haven't lived until you've inflated one of the badly distorted
> > stiff
> > > > > ones.  No amount of strapping or sealer or other gadgets will
help.
> > > > That's
> > > > > the time to learn about the ether method.  It saved the day.  A
> gentle
> > > > > "whump" and it was ready to inflate.
> > > > >
> > > > > George Willer
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > > From: "Larry D. Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
> > > > > To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'"
> > > > > <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > > > > Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 5:54 PM
> > > > > Subject: RE: [AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > I used to have those problems before I discovered that bead
sealer
> > > takes
> > > > > > most of the work out of that job.  On occasion, I need to use
some
> > > sort
> > > > > > of rope or ratchet hold down or what have you to expand the bead
a
> > > bit,
> > > > > > but the liquid bead sealer bridges across the gap well enough
that
> I
> > > > > > just don't seem to have to fight that problem any more.  Maybe
> I've
> > > just
> > > > > > been lucky.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Larry
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > > > > > [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Matthew
> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2004 7:57 AM
> > > > > > To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > > > > > Subject: [AT] How to seat the bead on lawn tractor tires?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I just got a pair of old lawn tractors (Ariens Emperors) and the
> > tires
> > > > > > are
> > > > > > pretty dry rotted on them.  These things are built solid as a
rock
> > so
> > > I
> > > > > > am
> > > > > > in the process of restoring them back to running condition.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I put a new rear tire on one of them, and it turned out to be a
> most
> > > of
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > afternoon project.  Getting the old tire off, and the new one on
> was
> > > > > > easy
> > > > > > enough.  Getting the bead started was the fly in the ointment.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I started with crossing my fingers and hoping that my compressor
> > would
> > > > > > blast it hard enough to get both sides to catch.  Not a chance.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Next, I tried a ratcheting tie down around the center to pull
the
> > > beads
> > > > > > out.
> > > > > > This looked like it was going to work, but you reach a point
> (before
> > > the
> > > > > >
> > > > > > bead starts to catch) where pulling the center in starts to pull
> the
> > > > > > beads
> > > > > > in too.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Next, the pyro in me came out and I tried the gas trick.  I have
> had
> > > > > > good
> > > > > > results with this on car and cycle tires, but there is something
> > bout
> > > > > > the
> > > > > > fat little tires that keeps it from getting a good pop..
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I resorted to beating on it with a mallet for a while.  It did
no
> > > good,
> > > > > > but
> > > > > > I got some aggression out.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > In the end I got it, with a rope around it, and a bunch of
sticks
> to
> > > > > > twist
> > > > > > the rope with.  As soon as the bead would start to cave in
> > someplace,
> > > I
> > > > > > would
> > > > > > loosen the whole thing up and stick a stick in that place and
> start
> > > > > > over.  3
> > > > > > or 4 sticks later and I was able to get just enough air in to
get
> it
> > > to
> > > > > > seat.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Once it is that far, you are home, but what a long, drawn out
trip
> > it
> > > > > > was.  Is
> > > > > > there an easier way to get these things to seat?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --Matthew
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > > AT mailing list
> > > > > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > > > > >
> > > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > > AT mailing list
> > > > > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > AT mailing list
> > > > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > AT mailing list
> > > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > AT mailing list
> > > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>





More information about the AT mailing list