[Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues

[Mike Schmudlach]

Bob Currie writes:
"cause as MOST of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't have a
battery :)"

MOST.......What do you mean MOST.
As I recall there is a guy I know on the left coast who makes a living with
a orange colored tractor that has a battery.
This is the same guy who thinks that Cheezwiz and "American" Cheese are
really cheese.  So i will take these comments with a grain of salt.
Even Karl owns tractors with batteries.  :-)

I am really hurt.....all along I thought I was collecting REAL tractors.

Signed,
Depressed in Swissconsin.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Currie" <tractors at foothill.net>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 25, 2004 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] The 22-36 Saga continues


> Lane,
> Excellent account. I felt like I was right there with you during the
entire
> drill. It is one that I have gladly done many times with some of the old
> stuff that has arrived in my shop. Not always with the same results, but
> great fun never the less. I'm especially proud of you for using the word
> "cranked" in your story, and the not the words "towed around the yard"..
> cause as most of us know, real tractors are painted gray, and don't have a
> battery :) The dyno stuff was very interesting. I don't have any of that
> kind of equipment, but I would have liked to looked over your shoulder
> during the tests..Our good friend Karl Olmstead has a great, early 1929
> McDeering 22-36, and I'm sure your story will excite him to the point that
> he'll drop his home remodeling tools, climb down off the ladder, and run
> out to the back forty to get "Ol Neihart", drag it into his shop area, and
> start the process..And it also goes without saying, (although I willI),
> that any good resurrection story isn't complete without some pix. So,
thank
> you for those too.
>
> bobcurrie
>
>
>   At 07:55 PM 7/24/04, you wrote:
> >Before I begin the tale of the 22-36 I'd like to thank Karl and Justin
for
> >their input on dealing with the oil pan sludge, dropping the pan was a
> >necessary evil.
> >
> >Before I began I called Gordon Rice and ordered a new pan gasket to be
sure
> >they were available.  In 3 days it arrived on my door step and I began to
> >wallow in the slime.  Dropping that Big Ol' cast iron bath tub sized pan
was
> >not exactly fun. I had to enlist the help of a floor jack as well as
remove
> >the tie rod in order to drop it to the floor and slide it out. Sludge was
> >about an inch deep in the bottom of the pan so I scraped out what I could
> >and then washed out the rest with mineral spirits until it was "shiny
> >clean". While the pan was off I cleaned out the Purolator filter and
flushed
> >all the oil lines to make sure none of the sludge got into them.  The
base
> >of the Purolator was filled with heavy sludge and the element was covered
> >with a black crust.  The element cleaned up nice with a soft brush in the
> >parts washer. After the oil delivery system was all cleaned up, it was
time
> >to apply the gasket and "Raise the Titanic Pan" into place.  This took
two
> >people since holding the pan in place and starting the bolts were
> >impossible.  My Dad operated the floor jack while I grunted and groaned
to
> >shift the pan in place for the bolts to line up.  After 3 or 4 bolts were
in
> >place the rest was child's play.  When all was snugged up and in place I
> >added the 30W Low Ash oil; seemed like it would never fill up and took
> >better part of a 5 gallon bucket.  Problem was the top Petcock was broken
> >and I couldn't get it open so I had to "eyeball" the level through the
> >handholes on the opposite side of the engine.
> >
> >I forgot to mention but while I was waiting for the oil pan gasket I did
go
> >back to the transmission end of the tractor for one night.  I found a
third
> >drain plug in the transmission toward the front and was surprised to find
> >about a gallon of water hiding in this section of the transmission.  This
> >was higher than the rest so I can't figure why this didn't drain out the
> >other holes.  I left it open not knowing if they were all interconnected
but
> >when I began adding the fresh 90W gear oil, it began to run out the front
> >plug hole after about 10 gallons.  The transmission took a total of 15
> >gallons before coming out the "full plug".
> >
> >Both rear tires were filled with calcium so I drained both off them,
> >refilled them with clear water and drained again and then added 2 gallons
of
> >pure antifreeze to keep any water left in the tired from freezing.  I had
to
> >get new valves for both tires since both were leaking from calcium
damage.
> >
> >Now for the engine, I put four new W-20 plugs in since the old ones were
> >pretty sad looking although they worked last time it ran 4 years ago. A
> >fresh E4A Magneto was also traded in for the old E4 since the impulse was
> >not working. Seemed like all should be in order for a test run and
believe
> >it or not it started on the first crank.  This was too good to be true -
and
> >YES it was too good to be true because after its maiden run I couldn't
get
> >it started for 2 more nights.  Seems there was a carb problem(flooding)
so
> >now it was time to tear that down.  I cleaned it up and put a new needle
and
> >seat in but the problem only got worse.  I tried floats from other parts
> >carbs I had lying around since the original seemed a little "heavy".
After
> >assembling and disassembling at least 10 times I decided to try the old
> >needle and seat again.  Instant success this time; seemed like the old
> >needle and seat worked better than the new one - no more flooding.  New
> >needle and seat is now in the trash.   Time to try it again but this time
it
> >took lots of cranking and gentle persuasion to get it to start and keep
> >running.  Lots of smoke and coughing until the cylinders got un-flooded,
and
> >some fine tuning on the carb adjustments.  But after it got over its
initial
> >"fits" it ran like a fine watch.  It will usually start on the first or
> >second crank every time now.
> >
> >I did some Dyno testing since I really would like to use this tractor in
the
> >local tractor pulls since it would probably be one of the oldest in the
> >pulls and it should do fairly well.  The test results were nearly
identical
> >to the Nebraska Tractor Tests if I'm interpreting them correctly.  At
535RPM
> >I was getting 40.5HP which is about the same as the Nebraska Tests.  I
> >decided to see how much lugging power it had and this is where the
results
> >really impressed me.  All the results can be seen on the pictures I'm
> >posting at the end of this post but to make a long story short, when I
> >reached the point of diminishing returns which was 320RPM's I was getting
a
> >reading of 57HP.  I'd appreciate anyone's interpretation of these
figures,
> >they seem odd to me from other tractors I've tested.
> >
> >The Dyno was also helpful in dialing in the magneto advance and retard
> >lever. After I found the "sweet spot", the slightest tweak of the lever
> >either advance or retard would give a loss of 2 to 3 HP at maximum RPM
> >
> >As always any comments always appreciated.  Pictures can be seen at:
> >
> >http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=3010962&a=31338268&pw=
> >
> >
> >Lane Freeman
> >New Tripoli, PA
> >
> >
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