[AT] The 22-36 Saga continues

Lane Freeman lmfree at ptd.net
Sat Jul 24 19:55:01 PDT 2004


Before I begin the tale of the 22-36 I'd like to thank Karl and Justin for
their input on dealing with the oil pan sludge, dropping the pan was a
necessary evil.

Before I began I called Gordon Rice and ordered a new pan gasket to be sure
they were available.  In 3 days it arrived on my door step and I began to
wallow in the slime.  Dropping that Big Ol' cast iron bath tub sized pan was
not exactly fun. I had to enlist the help of a floor jack as well as remove
the tie rod in order to drop it to the floor and slide it out. Sludge was
about an inch deep in the bottom of the pan so I scraped out what I could
and then washed out the rest with mineral spirits until it was "shiny
clean". While the pan was off I cleaned out the Purolator filter and flushed
all the oil lines to make sure none of the sludge got into them.  The base
of the Purolator was filled with heavy sludge and the element was covered
with a black crust.  The element cleaned up nice with a soft brush in the
parts washer. After the oil delivery system was all cleaned up, it was time
to apply the gasket and "Raise the Titanic Pan" into place.  This took two
people since holding the pan in place and starting the bolts were
impossible.  My Dad operated the floor jack while I grunted and groaned to
shift the pan in place for the bolts to line up.  After 3 or 4 bolts were in
place the rest was child's play.  When all was snugged up and in place I
added the 30W Low Ash oil; seemed like it would never fill up and took
better part of a 5 gallon bucket.  Problem was the top Petcock was broken
and I couldn't get it open so I had to "eyeball" the level through the
handholes on the opposite side of the engine.

I forgot to mention but while I was waiting for the oil pan gasket I did go
back to the transmission end of the tractor for one night.  I found a third
drain plug in the transmission toward the front and was surprised to find
about a gallon of water hiding in this section of the transmission.  This
was higher than the rest so I can't figure why this didn't drain out the
other holes.  I left it open not knowing if they were all interconnected but
when I began adding the fresh 90W gear oil, it began to run out the front
plug hole after about 10 gallons.  The transmission took a total of 15
gallons before coming out the "full plug".

Both rear tires were filled with calcium so I drained both off them,
refilled them with clear water and drained again and then added 2 gallons of
pure antifreeze to keep any water left in the tired from freezing.  I had to
get new valves for both tires since both were leaking from calcium damage.

Now for the engine, I put four new W-20 plugs in since the old ones were
pretty sad looking although they worked last time it ran 4 years ago. A
fresh E4A Magneto was also traded in for the old E4 since the impulse was
not working. Seemed like all should be in order for a test run and believe
it or not it started on the first crank.  This was too good to be true - and
YES it was too good to be true because after its maiden run I couldn't get
it started for 2 more nights.  Seems there was a carb problem(flooding) so
now it was time to tear that down.  I cleaned it up and put a new needle and
seat in but the problem only got worse.  I tried floats from other parts
carbs I had lying around since the original seemed a little "heavy". After
assembling and disassembling at least 10 times I decided to try the old
needle and seat again.  Instant success this time; seemed like the old
needle and seat worked better than the new one - no more flooding.  New
needle and seat is now in the trash.   Time to try it again but this time it
took lots of cranking and gentle persuasion to get it to start and keep
running.  Lots of smoke and coughing until the cylinders got un-flooded, and
some fine tuning on the carb adjustments.  But after it got over its initial
"fits" it ran like a fine watch.  It will usually start on the first or
second crank every time now.

I did some Dyno testing since I really would like to use this tractor in the
local tractor pulls since it would probably be one of the oldest in the
pulls and it should do fairly well.  The test results were nearly identical
to the Nebraska Tractor Tests if I'm interpreting them correctly.  At 535RPM
I was getting 40.5HP which is about the same as the Nebraska Tests.  I
decided to see how much lugging power it had and this is where the results
really impressed me.  All the results can be seen on the pictures I'm
posting at the end of this post but to make a long story short, when I
reached the point of diminishing returns which was 320RPM's I was getting a
reading of 57HP.  I'd appreciate anyone's interpretation of these figures,
they seem odd to me from other tractors I've tested.

The Dyno was also helpful in dialing in the magneto advance and retard
lever. After I found the "sweet spot", the slightest tweak of the lever
either advance or retard would give a loss of 2 to 3 HP at maximum RPM

As always any comments always appreciated.  Pictures can be seen at:

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=3010962&a=31338268&pw=


Lane Freeman
New Tripoli, PA





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