[AJD] 35 D Runs Again!, but CRACK?

Thu Jul 15 21:32:24 PDT 2004

Greg,

I did use two lead washers.  I also used a new head gasket.  I am going to
try to re-torque the head with a new torque wrench and see if that takes
care of the problem.  If not, then it's back to square one.

Gary
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <greg at theoldtractorcompany.com>
To: "Antique John Deere mailing list"
<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2004 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [AJD] 35 D Runs Again!, but CRACK?

> Also don't forget the lead washers, the D takes TWO per stud instead of
the usual one. Since  you have a problem I would also spring for a new head
gasket just so you can elminate that as a problem. Remember on these head
gaskets, the smooth side (without the crimped edge of the fire ring around
the bore hole) goes to the block. The crimped fire ring edge goes TO the
head. I use CopperKote as a sealer to be safe on the head gasket.
> Good luck
> Greg
>
> Greg Stephen
> The Old Tractor Company
> Stephen Equipment Company
> Box 709
> 7460 E Hiway 86
> Franktown, CO 80116
> 303-663-5246
> 303-688-4170 fax
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------
> On Thu, 15 Jul 2004 01:06:58 -0500, "Gary Epps" <garyepps at fidnet.com>
wrote:
>
> > Greg,
> >
> > I'm keeping these emails in my D file so if I  need some help with an
> > unrepairable head I will contact you.  I'm thinking the problem may be
in
> > torquing the head bolts.  I will try a new torque wrench when I can bet
back
> > to it.
> >
> > Gary
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: <greg at theoldtractorcompany.com>
> > To: "Antique John Deere mailing list"
> > <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 10:09 AM
> > Subject: RE: [AJD] 35 D Runs Again!, but CRACK?
> >
> >
> > > In my experience and after fielding many many phone calls, I have
found
> > that the D head is notorious for cracking. I would highly suspect a
crack in
> > the valve seat area. A crack into the push rod tube area in the block
ill
> > also vent large amounts of water quickly. All things considered, I would
> > hope for a cracked head as those are usually repairable and you don't
ahve
> > to tear the entire engine down. If it is the head and you can't find
anyone
> > to repair it or if it's been diagnosed as unrepairable then contact me
and I
> > can give you a guy's name who specializes in repairing the unrepairable,
> > might be worth a shot.
> > >
> > > Good luck
> > > Greg
> > >
> > > ps- you did torque to the correct value, right?
> > >
> > > Greg Stephen
> > > The Old Tractor Company
> > > Stephen Equipment Company
> > > Box 709
> > > 7460 E Hiway 86
> > > Franktown, CO 80116
> > > 303-663-5246
> > > 303-688-4170 fax
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------------------
> > > On Sat, 10 Jul 2004 22:54:03 -0500, "Gary Epps" <garyepps at fidnet.com>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > The 35 D runs again!  I got her back together and she started with
the
> > > > flywheel.  I forgot that I had turned the fuel off after pulling the
> > > > flywheel over a few times, so she starved out after a couple of
minutes.
> > Of
> > > > course I couldn't get to the fuel shut-off in time to keep her
running.
> > The
> > > > second time she started at the end of a tow chain!  Sounded good,
though
> > the
> > > > tappets may be a little loose.
> > > >
> > > > So much for the hopes of being "lightly stuck".  I was able to free
up
> > three
> > > > valves with PB Blaster, but the fourth had to be pressed out in a 12
ton
> > > > press.  The left piston was not inclined to move, so I went to  the
wood
> > > > pile and found a nice round piece of firewood about 7" diameter
after
> > the
> > > > bark was peeled off, took it into the wood shop, put it on the lathe
and
> > > > turned it to fit the cylinder, being careful to make the piston end
> > convex
> > > > so the force would be on the edges of the piston over the skirt.
After
> > > > applying the BFH the piston began to move.  Oh, I had already
removed
> > the
> > > > rod cap.  I lightly honed the cylinders and began to put it back
> > together.
> > > > I towed it up and down the drive way a couple of times with diesel
fuel
> > in
> > > > the crankcase and then filled her up with 15w40.
> > > >
> > > > Now, to the "but".  I started it up with a dry radiator, drove it
over
> > to a
> > > > hydrant and filled her up with water.  While filling the radiator it
> > died.
> > > > After filling it, it wouldn't start, I couldn't even turn it over!
I
> > opened
> > > > the petcocks and put a little pressure on the flywheel and water
spurted
> > out
> > > > the left petcock about three feet in the air.  The cylinder had a
LOT of
> > > > water in it.  It must have had a couple of cups anyway in it.  The
right
> > > > cylinder had water in it as well.  I knew where the water came from,
but
> > > > how?  I considered the head gasket, or an unknown freeze crack that
I
> > didn't
> > > > notice, but none of these would have filled the cylinders with water
> > that
> > > > quickly.  Another possibility might be the water valve, but as I
> > understand
> > > > the principle, it shouldn't siphon water unless the engine is
working
> > hard.
> > > > I haven't taken it off yet, but I intend to do so Monday, hopefully,
and
> > > > plug the holes and see if it happens again.  What am I missing?
What
> > could
> > > > put that much water in the cylinders that fast?  I perplexed.
> > > >
> > > > Gary
> > > > garyepps at fidnet.com
> > > > In the Ozark Mountains of South Central USA where both life and I
move
> > at a
> > > > leisurely pace.
> > > >
> > > >
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