[AJD] 35 D

Merle W. Johnson wjohnson at bigriver.net
Thu Jul 1 18:04:08 PDT 2004


>From someone with extensive background in oil research---I use 15-40 CE oil in
all 4 cycle engines above 20 degF.  Any colder than that I'm not going to run
them except for the vehicles for transportation and I use 15-40 year round in
them.  If it gets too cold, I use a block heater.
Merle

Gary Epps wrote:

> Dee, Duane and others who responded.  The D is no longer stuck.  After
> freeing the last valve with a hydraulic press I removed the left
> cylinder(the one I thought was stuck) rod cap and sure enough the right
> piston was free.  I turned a large piece of oak (fire wood) into a cylinder
> that would fit into the cylinder with close tolerance and used a BFH on it
> and the piston moved at first about 1/8" and then an inch and then I could
> move it forward to it's former position with the flywheel.
>
> Today I rounded up the gaskets and may have it together by the weekend.  The
> next question is what oil to use?  The owners manual says to use 50wt above
> 90*, 40wt from 65* to 90*, and 30wt from 32* to 65*.  Is anyone using a
> multi-weight oil?  This is a tractor that will not be worked, just played
> with and used for parades and such.  Is there a good reason not to use a
> multi-weight oil?  If using a straight weight oil, would it make sense to go
> a lighter weight such as 30wt for summer use since it won't be bubjected to
> the beating that a working tractor would take.  Am I missing something
> important  here?
>
> I plan to button it up and put some diesel fuel in it and tow it around a
> bit then drain and change the filter and fill with oil.  I'm getting anxious
> to hear it run.
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DEE SCHUYLER" <web22hsz at verizon.net>
> To: "Antique John Deere mailing list"
> <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 7:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [AJD] 35 D
>
> > Gary .
> > Two reasons really, at least that is the way it was explained to me.
> > One to seal against water leaks , and also to add a little slippage when
> > tightning down the head bolts,
> > Not sure pulling it is the way I would go ? you allready have the head off
> > why not pull  the rod caps off and see which cyl  is stuck,
> > then with the cap off back the flywheel away from the rod end and using a
> > nice piston sized block give it a good smak or two
> > with a BFH.
> > If it is really stuck and you pull it you may just end up sliding the
> wheels
> > when pulling it. Or something could break? If they do not move when hit
> with
> > the block and hammer, I would just go ahead and pull the block off and
> find
> > a press, that is the cheapest  in the long run!
> > Dee
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gary Epps" <garyepps at fidnet.com>
> > To: <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Monday, June 28, 2004 4:19 PM
> > Subject: [AJD] 35 D
> >
> >
> > > The '35 D is stuck worse than I thought.  I have the head off and the
> > valves
> > > unstuck.  I'm headed out to work on the pistons now.  I will try to
> break
> > > the pistons loose by using a bar on the flywheel.  If that fails I think
> I
> > > will put the head back on and fill the crankcase with diesel fuel and
> try
> > to
> > > loosen the pistons by pulling it in gear.
> > >
> > > My question is what is the purpose of the lead washer under the nuts on
> > the
> > > head bolt studs?  The parts manual states that it takes 18 washer per
> > head.
> > > There are only 9 head bolt studs.  The implied suggestion is that it
> takes
> > > two per head.  Am I over-looking something?  Next question, Why two per
> > head
> > > bolt?  Any of you D guys have an answer for this?
> > >
> > > Gary
> > > garyepps at fidnet.com
> > > In the Ozark Mountains of South Central USA where both life and I move
> at
> > a
> > > leisurely pace.
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
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