[AJD] exaust valve in my D?COMMENT ON VALVE SPRINGS

greg at theoldtractorcompany.com greg at theoldtractorcompany.com
Tue Dec 28 11:02:10 PST 2004


Just wanted to comment on the early D valve springs Lou mentioned, 485R. I found that Deere began to make them differently, changing the coil count and height. When I questioned them on this they said "The design has changed" and "They are made just as they have always been made"
I asked how this was possible to change the design when the tractor itself had been out of production for 70 years and how they could be made the same when they weren't the same as the ones I had taken out of the tractor nor were they a match for the few NOS I had left. 
End result, I now make them myself for about $18 each

Greg

Greg Stephen
The Old Tractor Company
Stephen Equipment Company
Box 709
7460 E Hiway 86
Franktown, CO 80116
303-663-5246
303-468-0377 FAX<<--A GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!


------------------------------------------------
On Mon, 27 Dec 2004 20:31:52 -0500, "Louis" <louis at kellnet.com> wrote:

> I had a head redone for a John Deere D SN # 30888.  I used JD part #
> D3410R for the valves.  Last year they were $89.73. Now they are $105
> from Deere. I make a habit of replacing the valve springs.  Weak valve
> springs can cause all types of problems.  The springs for this tractor
> are part # 485R.  They are $37.50 each.  I just looked back in my
> records; I also used this same valves and springs in a late 1927 John
> Deere D.
> 
>  I just had a head redone for a styled D.  The valves for that tractor
> are $110.  They are part # D3411R.  The valve springs for this tractor
> are part # D1724R.  They are $15.75 each.
> 
> Most of the D valves that I have seen have been shot.  You need to be
> careful of stem wear.  I have seen them worn .060".  That can cause all
> kinds of problems. I had a machine shop refuse to reassemble a head with
> valves that had that kind of wear.  It made sense after they explained
> it to me.  They said before the head was disassembled and cleaned, there
> was carbon and other crud in-between the valve guide and the valve stem.
> This helped hold the valve fairly square in the guide.  Now that the
> crud was cleaned out, the valve could cock in the guide and stick open.
> If that happens while the engine is running, it could end up breaking a
> piston and other damage, i.e. thrown connecting rod, broken block,
> etc...
> 
> If you buy used valves or use old valves, they need to be completely
> checked.  It would hurt to have them magnafluxed to check for cracks.
> You don't want to do all that work and spend all that money to have the
> head of the valve break off and ruin your engine.
> 
> Louis Spiegelberg
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf
> Of Eric LaCruze
> Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 7:16 PM
> To: Antique John Deere mailing list
> Subject: Re: [AJD] can I use the 820 exaust valve in my D?
> 
> 
> I asked my cousin exactly what he did, here's his response.
> 
> Eric
> 
> ----
> 
> Eric,  I had a set of valves from a later model D cut down to use in my 
> '28 D.  I don't remember off hand what the serial # break is,but the 
> later d valves have about a 1" or 1.5" longer stem but are otherwise 
> dimensionally the same.   The original shorter valves for the '28 are 
> (or were) still available from deere, but you can find a nice used set 
> of the later ones for a fraction of the price.
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
> 



More information about the AT mailing list