Fw: RE: [Ford-ferguson] Resistor & condenser 8N

[Gene]

Thanks for the info.  I will check the seals, I was concernedthat the oil in the tranny is about 3 in above the full mark on the dip stick and almost to the stick hole.  I will pull the wheels and replace the seals.

Gene

-----Original Message-----
From: James W Storment <jstorm at midwest.net>
Sent: Aug 15, 2004 4:20 AM
To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list <ford-ferguson at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [Ford-ferguson] Resistor & condenser 8N

Hello Gene,
Your tracto is a 1950 TO-20 and I suspect the problem is with bearings and
seals in the axles, rather than too much oil.  The tranny, hydraulic system
nd differential are all together and the hydraulic oil leaks into the brakes
when the seals go bad,
jstorm (the old one)
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene <uel72 at earthlink.net>
To: Ford-Ferguson mailing list <ford-ferguson at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 06:44
Subject: Re: Fw: RE: [Ford-ferguson] Resistor & condenser 8N


> This is not in reference to your mesg, however, I am looking for a manual
or any info on a Ferguson tractor.  The SN # TO33783.  My main problem is
the brakes.  The pads are oil soaked and the I think there is too much oil
in the rear end.  Any assistance is appreciated.  Thanks, Gene
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rdlotze at juno.com
> Sent: Aug 15, 2004 9:17 PM
> To: ford-ferguson at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Subject: Fw: RE: [Ford-ferguson] Resistor & condenser 8N
>
> Hey you guys want to change points and condenser on front mounted
> distributors the right way?
> unsnap cover - remove coil - disconnect primary wire - remove the two cap
> screws and remove the whole distributor and take to workbench - IT FO4
> manual show procedure to check timing if you want check but not
> necessary. The drive tang is offset and will only go in one way. So when
> putting back, slow turn rotor until it drops in slot on camshaft - put
> bolts back in - coil - cap - wire
> Point Gap .014 - .016
> Make sure if you replace spark wires - use only copper wire not carbon
> automotive wires.
>
> Dick
>
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Ace Russell" <acerussell at comcast.net>
> To: <ford-ferguson at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 22:22:42 -0400
> Subject: RE: [Ford-ferguson] Resistor & condensor 8N
> Message-ID: <00ba01c48337$e8e26e90$8700a8c0 at vaiofx250>
>
> Speaking of that, what is the proper point gap?
>
> I think I might go with the "big job" instead of removing the
> distributor.
> I've taken the radiator out before, and even though it is truly a big
> job,
> everything is accessible at least. And I can take the opportunity to
> replace
> the spark plug wires and not route them through that steel pipe, which I
> think is awkward. Any other things I might take care of while I'm in
> there?
>
> Ace
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > The points can be changed on a front mounted dist. without it being
> > removed, but it is extremely hard to get right. after doing this for
> > 35 years, I have
> > found that removing the dist. is the simplest way to do it.
> > If you did not want to remove it the next best way to get at it is by
> > removing the grill and rad. A big job but you would not have
> > to take out the
> > dist.
> > Which ever method you use, just make sure that once you get
> > the points in
> > and set to the proper gap, that you clean them.
> >
> > Moe
> >
>
>
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