[AT] another new shop

[Ralph Goff]

The slip form method is also used on the concrete terminals that are
replacing the old wooden elevators here. Continuous pour  once they start.

Ralph in Sask.
http://lgoff.sasktelwebsite.net/

----- Original Message -----
From: Larry D. Goss <rlgoss at evansville.net>
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group' <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 5:43 PM
Subject: RE: [AT] another new shop


> Now that you mention high-rise, I seem to remember that slip forms are
> used in casting the concrete shells of those hyperbolic paraboliods for
> cooling towers at power plants.
>
> Larry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of charlie hill
> Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 3:50 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] another new shop
>
> Larry they do the same thing with slip forming on high rise concrete
> structures but that is a whole different can of worms.  The work is done
> by
> people who really know their stuff, using specialized equipment and
> PRECICELY batched concrete.
>
> Charlie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry D. Goss" <rlgoss at evansville.net>
> To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'"
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 10:36 AM
> Subject: RE: [AT] another new shop
>
>
> > The next time any of you travel through a construction zone where they
> > are pouring a continuous divider wall on an Interstate highway, notice
> > the process.  The form isn't more than eight or ten feet long, and
> they
> > move it along as they pour -- within minutes of when it came out of
> the
> > truck.  City street departments do the same thing with poured curbing.
> > I grew up with the concept of letting concrete set for at least 24
> hours
> > before removing the forms, but that's obviously an old-fashioned idea
> > nowadays.
> >
> > Larry
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> > DAVIESW739 at aol.com
> > Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 12:48 AM
> > To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
> > Subject: Re: [AT] another new shop
> >
> > In a message dated 8/12/2004 6:35:39 PM Pacific  Daylight Time,
> > gremaux at tein.net writes:
> > my turn Walt....
> > first if you took  the forms off while the truck was still
> there.....how
> > did
> > you pick up the  mess......cause it would not stand upright that soon
> > ....next morning yes but  not while the truck was still there.
> > Agreed that cured in the air is  best
> >
> > Frank I don't know how wet your pour your concrete But I have worked
> in
> > it
> > for over 40 years and I alway pull the forms right away not the next
> day
> > as i
> > don't like to pry them off with a sledge hammer.  I don't know who you
> > work
> > for but I bet its like the stuff we get out here now sloppy wet with
> no
> >
> > strength. The dryer the concrete the stronger it will be that's what I
> > was  taught
> > and none of you will ever change my mind on that. I have seen wet
> > concrete
> > poured where it flaked off until there was nothing left. You only get
> > cracks
> > from freezing if water can get into the concrete simple logic.  Also
> to
> > stop
> > cracking then besure that you have a solid foundation to put it on.
> Sand
> > or or
> > small gravel is not enough you need a good rock base start with large
> > ones
> > then add the smaller size up to the top of the base where sand and or
> > gravel can
> > be used.
> >
> >
> > Walt Davies
> > Cooper Hollow Farm
> > Monmouth, OR  97361
> > 503 623-0460
> >
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