[AT] Sealing a tire to a rim

[Robinson]

charlie hill wrote:
> Hi Cecil,  I don't really view tubes as a solution.  I keep a plug kit in my
> truck all the time.  If I have a flat from a nail along the road I can fix
> it quickly and all I need is some air.  If I put a tube in it and depend on
> the tube to seal the tire then when I get the inevitable flat I've got to
> find a tire shop.  With all due respect to James and George the idea of
> fixing the problem with a tube is to me like fixing a drafty window frame by
> installing a storm window.  Not a bad solution but I'd rather fix the
> window.
> 
> In my case the tire is not the problem.  I know that.  I bought these tires
> new and they are very high quality tires.  The problem is roughness in the
> rim bead.  The solution to me is either to repair the bead, replace the  rim
> or to use a sealant to seal the rim.  Much like you would use a sealant to
> seal the leaking window.  That is why I ask the opinion of the list.  I
> wouldn't try to seal a leaky window with bubble gum but I sure would use
> some new glazing compound or some weather strip.  In the case of the rim I
> didn't know what to use.  We seem to be narrowing down on that now.
> 
> Breaking this tire down just doesn't make sense to me considering the time
> and expense involved in it.  I can stay ahead of this leak with the air
> compressor that is about 20 feet from where the trailer is parked.  If and
> when I need to replace the tire I will just put another rim on it.  They
> sell them at the junk yard for less than the price of a tube.
> 
> Just an explaination of my thinking.  Your  results may vary.
> 
> Charlie





	Pretty much my sentiments exactly Charlie... I have waaaay 
too many tires on the ground to be buying tubes for them. I 
don't even like tube tires. I do on occasion stick a tube in 
for special cases like a good tire with a very badly damaged 
bead or on some small tires where they need to run at low 
pressures (usually lawnmower). Otherwise I go the other way. 
I keep a reamer in a bit brace by the tire changer and when 
I can I convert my old implement wheels to tubeless.
	I don't really like the slimes and such, I may use one as a 
last resort but if I put sealer in a tire that pretty much 
screws it for fixing a nail hole with a plug because of the 
slime getting in the hole. The goo keeps the rubber cement 
from bonding. Some of them will rust a rim badly. Of course 
I don't like most plugs either. I am in love with the "Tech 
Permacure" plug strips. I have "NEVER" had one fail. They 
are wrapped with vulcanizing rubber and when inserted with 
vulcanizing cement will melt a bit and really seal well. 
They are the only plug I have found that will hold forever 
in steel belts.
	For bead leaks... first I avoid them by "NEVER" dry 
mounting a tire. I prefer Murphy's Oil Soap in water 
(vegetable oil based) When I do have a bead leaker most of 
the time all that is needed is to pull the tire and remount 
it with plenty of lube. In extreme cases I have used a 
little rubber cement. Generally if a bead has a damaged spot 
you can fix it by cleaning it down and applying a piece of 
vulcanizing rubber with rubber cement then put a coat of 
rubber cement on the surface before inflating. The 
vulcanizing rubber will crush to conform to the rim. Lately 
we have been keeping a big squeeze bottle of a white latex 
sealer like you would put inside of a tire. On really rough 
rims or a tire that has previously leaked at the bead, clean 
the bead and wire brush the rim (a good wire brush is a 
standard fixture at the changer). We then squeeze out a 
smooth bead of the latex onto the face of the bead all the 
way around before inflating. Seems to be working 100% so far.
	On more critical tires I prefer to repair nail holes with 
the tire off. I like a Permacure insert installed and cut 
off flush inside of the tire and then a regular patch 
installed inside of the tire (the spot already buffed). The 
inside seals the inner liner and the Permacure seals the 
water out of the hole. One of the several reasons I don't 
like most plugs is that you can sometimes get a good seal in 
the body of the tire but the inner liner is still leaking. 
That can cause a ply separation to occur when the air gets 
between them but can't leak on out. Such leakage is the 
reason that if you buy a recap tire today it has a whole 
series of pre-punched tiny holes in the outer rubber as part 
of the recap process. Look closely at one some time.
	For larger punctures I like the toadstool repairs where the 
plug and patch are all in one piece and pulled through from 
the inside after proper preparation.
	I always lube tubeless stems too and if the hole is rough 
or the old one was leaking but looked good I grab the tube 
of hi-temp black silicone and put it around the base of the 
stem before installing. The silicone serves as the lube in 
that case.
	I deal with tires based on their use. Highway speeds call 
for a lot more attention than some old rag for a pull type 
plow.   :-)

	BTW I only paid $200 for my first pneumatic tire changer, 
an Amco. I kept is as a back-up in the tire shop until we 
closed it. I paid $800 some years ago as a rebuilt for my 
Coates 40/40 changer and kept it when we closed the tire 
shop. I have seen decent changers selling for about $200 to 
$400 and if you have a lot of tires one can be a real 
blessing. A decent manual changer can be bought new for much 
less and they work fine. If you will remember tire shops and 
filling stations all used manual changers years ago.


-- 



"farmer"

My latest list "No Nonsense Horse" (includes donkeys & mules).
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Francis Robinson
Central Indiana USA
robinson at svs.net