[AT] trailer lights

[James Yost]

Greg,

   I responded about an hour ago but the email did not
come through. Use NEVER SEIZE on all connecting point.
Be it mounting or wiring. Stuff works great. I have
one trailer that I built in 1984 and still to this day
have not had a problem with my lights.

Jim
--- "Easley, Greg" <EasleyG at health.missouri.edu>
wrote:
> Lots of good advice all around.  Thanks guys. 
> Here's what I'm dealing
> with: 30 year old FFA project gooseneck, never been
> kept in the dry,
> plenty of rust in all the normal places.  '93 one
> ton Dodge truck that
> also has plenty of rust in all the normal places. 
> 6-way round trailer
> connection.  4" flush-mount rear lights that ground
> to the trailer frame
> via a metal strap from the lamp base to one mounting
> hole in the light
> housing, which is where the problem lies in this
> instance.  It's
> impossible
> to keep those ground connections from corroding.
> 
> I bought enough jacketed 14-6 trailer wire over the
> lunch hour to
> replace
> everything from the lights to the truck plug.  The
> 6-way round connector
> has a ground, so I'll be able to eliminate the
> trailer frame from the
> circuit.  A ground lead connected directly to the
> lights via a ring
> terminal
> under the screw head should be a much more reliable
> connection.
> 
> I did find some flush mount lights that mount into
> the trailer frame in
> a
> big rubber grommet that had a ground wire in the
> connector plug,
> unfortunately
> I can't use those - the guys who built the trailer
> cut the mounting
> holes for
> the lights with a torch.  Not exactly a precision
> manufacturing
> technique.
> 
> If worse comes to worse I'll bend some guards out of
> 3/16 mild steel,
> weld
> them to the trailer frame and switch to stud-mounted
> lights.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Greg
> http://www.geocities.com/heartland/woods/1416
> 
> 
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=====
Jim and Janna Yost
Utica, Ohio
USA
jnyost at yahoo.com


	
		
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