[AT] handcluctch and more 630 questions LOOONG

[Ricky Prescott]

Thanks for all your help Brett.  They are going to rebuild the LPG regulator
(diaphram) as it was leaking pretty bad.  He has all the origional books
that go with it.  I will be able to look at it better next week and maybe
bring it home.  I am going to have many questions as I am not familiar with
the JD's as I am Farmalls.  Thanks, Ricky
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Phillips" <bphillip at shentel.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 9:56 AM
Subject: RE: [AT] handcluctch and more 630 questions LOOONG


> Ricky:
>
> Clutch:  Some bucking is to be expected if you lug a 2-cylinder engine.
> However, if the clutch seems grabby, there are some adjustments which may
or
> may not help.  The pulley brake adjustment is one that is often
overlooked,
> and it will cause the long lever travel that you describe.  The I&T manual
> covers this, but it is a bit confusing at first.  I don't think there is a
> good manual from Deere on the 630, as they will sell you one for a 60,
which
> is similar in some areas, but quite different in others.  Another thing
that
> can cause a grabby clutch is if someone has only replaced the outer
facings
> (common).  The toggles that move the pulley in and out are also known to
> wear or break, and that might cause jerkiness.  My 630 does have a grabby
> clutch, but I have never done much to it, other than adjust the engagement
> and the pulley brake.  the adjustments helped some, but I am planning to
> overhaul the pulley and clutch when I get a round tuit.  I doubt you'll
ever
> find a tractor that is easier to put a clutch in than a Waterloo 2-cyl.
>
> Power Steering:  If it's just sluggish, it could be that it needs to be
> drained, flushed, and refilled with the right John Deere PS fluid.  The JD
> fluid is a cross between hydraulic oil and EP gear oil.  This is because
the
> oil lubricates the worm gear in the top of the pedestal, and also
functions
> as a hydraulic oil.  Some people use Hytran, but this will cause the worm
> gear to gall and lock.  A weak pump or a misadjusted flow control valve
> could also cause sluggish steering.  If you end up going into the worm and
> valve assembly, be warned that you can spend lots of time and money there,
> as the tolerances are pretty close, and some patience is required to set
> things up properly.  When the system is working properly, it is on a par
> with New Generation JD power steering, i.e. you can steer with your pinky
> finger.
>
> Exhaust leak:  This is another place where you can get into money if
things
> have gone too far.  The bolts can be difficult to get out without breaking
> if they haven't been out for a while.  Mine came out fairly easily, as
> someone had replaced the gasket before I bought my 630.  Unfortunately,
they
> had broken off one of the bolts, and had done a nasty job of drilling it
out
> and rethreading.  the gasket surface was .030" out of flat too, so I
pulled
> the head and had the hole helicoiled and the gasket surface milled flat.
It
> wasn't a particularly hard job, but I wished someone had done it right the
> first time.  I was lucky that the exhaust port was in good shape, I have
> seen some that were badly eroded and required welding to build them up.
> Some heads might be cheaper to replace than fix...
>
> Brakes:  These are adjusted by tightening the square headed bolt that
sticks
> out the back of the backing plate.  Most Waterloo 2-Cylinders are the
same.
> Typically, the adjusters are stuck from sitting out in the weather, but
they
> aren't too hard to fix if you remove the brake drum and use some heat on
the
> adjuster pins.  Be sure to slather them up with anti-sieze when you put it
> together again.  The entire brake assembly can be removed from the
> transmission by removing three bolts, and this may make it easier or
harder
> to work on, depending on what you're doing to the brakes.  If your shoes
are
> in good condition, a JD dealer will usually rivet new lining on for 50-60
> bucks.
>
> Did you check out the PTO?  The foot clutch might seem clumsy at first,
but
> I assure you, it is slick when you get used to it.  The problems you
> describe are all fairly typical for an off-the-farm 630, and might be
minor
> or major repairs, depending on how bad things are.  The power steering has
> the potential to be a $1000+ bill if you let a dealer get ahold of it, or
> $50 to flush and refill.  The clutch could be a free adjustment or a
> complete rebuild for several hundred bucks.  I'm not sure what the worst
> case would be on the exhaust leak, as I haven't priced a head lately, but
it
> could be nasty too.  Might not either...  Be sure to take a peek at the
> flywheel hub and the clutch driver before you buy it.  Both are visible
> after removing tin covers with a screwdriver.  Looseness there means $$$.
> Let us know how it's equipped, and we can maybe give you a ballpark figure
> on what it's worth.
>
> Sorry this got so long,
> Brett
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of Ricky Prescott
> Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 9:27 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: [AT] handcluctch and more 630 questions
>
>
> I drove the 630 yesterday.  They had to pull it to get it started.  It had
> been sitting for 3 years.  It has always been sheded.  It bucks some when
> you take off in higher gears.  Can you adjust the hand clutch so that it
> won't do that?  It also did it in reverse.  You had to push the hand
clutch
> a long ways to get it to snap.  Is there some adjustment to move the
handle
> back some?  Does it need new clutch disc?  The power steering was a little
> stiff also.  What needs to be done there?  There was an exhaust leak.
> between the head and manifold.  How hard is it to get the manifold bolts
> off?  The left brakes was weak.  Is there an ajustment for it?  That is
all
> I can remember.  Let me know what you think.  Ricky
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